可蘭經教導信徒們不得飮酒，但不是全球的穆斯林都嚴格恪守。印度的某些地方也一樣，古吉拉特這個邦就是禁酒的（除了賤民所釀造的烈酒之外），必須持有特别的上癮者許可證才能買酒，因為甘地反對奢侈和放縱。但是下層階级在傳統上是酒的生產者，也是主要的消費者。 波羅門Brahman祭司階級樹立了許多社會行為的典範，喝酒向来不是他們的特色之一。 我不知道印度教的聖書有什麽阻止喝酒的內容。 這應該是一個印度社會的清教 Puritan 潮流所反對的奢侈現象。 佛教對酒是節制而非抵制， 不過佛教修行的最高形式是包括禁酒在内的。 猶太教在吃踰越節Passover晚宴時規定要有四杯葡萄酒，萄萄酒在基督教代表的是為人類犧牲的神的寳血，麵包則是他的身體。對許多新教徒来説，他們不能在任何場合飮用基督寳血，它不適合當餐酒，是和基督教早期反對香水和精緻（有顔色）服装是一貫的。作為聖餐的麵包則可放在口裡吃下. 另一方面，在天主教會似乎產生了完全相反的效果。這也是宗教矛盾情结出現的理由。
201 - 203頁 飲食與愛情 東方與西方的文化史: = Food and love : a cultural history of East and West / 傑克.顧迪(Jack Goody)著教教君譯. 台北 聯經, 2004
2016年4月29日 星期五
安達魯西亞马拉加甜鰻魚糕 smoked eel terrine(瓦罐)
LUNCH IN MÁLAGA:
Starter頭道菜. Silky and rich, smoked eel terrine 陶罐 layered with sweet williams pears. Gorgeous絢麗的,令人愉快的. Best-liked dish by all of us, even Andy who claimed he wouldn’t eat eel (宗教信徒連無鱗魚也照吃了)! Of course, we were famished 餓壞了 and our palates 味觉were fresh.
圖文轉載自http://mykitcheninspain.blogspot.hk/2014/09/out-to-lunch-in-malaga.html
圖文轉載自http://mykitcheninspain.blogspot.hk/2014/09/out-to-lunch-in-malaga.html
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加泰羅尼亞甜鰻鱼糕 圖文轉載自:
http://www.mytaste.cat/click/index/893043/delicies.blogspot.com
Pastís de peix
En Jordi m’ha enviat aquesta recepta, promet ser molt bona i fàcil de fer, a més, es pot fer amb qualsevol peix.Ingredients:- 500 gr. de salmó o qualsevol peix en filet sense espines ni pell i en daus.
- 200 ml. de nata líquida
- 1 cullerada petita de pebre vermell dolç
- 1 cullerada petita d’anet
- ½ pot del més petit tomàquet sofregit (Solís)
- 2 ous
Posar tots els ingredients en una batedora i triturar-ho.
En un motlle rectangular de vidre o de plàstic que vagi al microones, posar-hi oli a les parets i després posar-hi pa ratllat. Treure l’excés. Posar-hi el preparat de peix i tapar-lo amb plàstic transparent. Posar-ho al microones al mínim durant uns 15 minuts i després comprovar el grau de cocció. Deixar refredar i desemmotllar.
Pels dies de festa es pot recobrir el pastís amb salmó fumat i sempre cal acompanyar-lo amb una salsa:
Maionesa, salsa rosa, salsa tàrtara, etc.
Google 譯文:魚餡餅
- 200毫升
- 灯笼椒粉1茶匙
- 1茶匙蒔蘿
-最小½番茄醬罐（索利斯）
-雞蛋2個
將所有原料放入攪拌機，打磨它。
在一個長方形的玻璃模具或塑料進去微波，把内壁塗上油，然後把麵包屑撒上。去除多餘的。把準備魚和用塑料覆蓋。把它放在微波爐至少15分鐘，然後檢查烹調的程度。酷和unmold
假期可以覆蓋蛋糕，熏鮭魚，必須始終用醬陪它：
蛋黃醬，雞尾酒醬，調味醬等。
- 1茶匙蒔蘿
-最小½番茄醬罐（索利斯）
-雞蛋2個
將所有原料放入攪拌機，打磨它。
在一個長方形的玻璃模具或塑料進去微波，把内壁塗上油，然後把麵包屑撒上。去除多餘的。把準備魚和用塑料覆蓋。把它放在微波爐至少15分鐘，然後檢查烹調的程度。酷和unmold
假期可以覆蓋蛋糕，熏鮭魚，必須始終用醬陪它：
蛋黃醬，雞尾酒醬，調味醬等。
－－－－－－－－－－－－－－－－－－－－－－－－－－－－－－－－－－－－－－－－－－
示範短片:
Google 譯文
葡萄牙甜點雞蛋"七鰓鰻"與傳統炆七鰓鰻 图片 (2016-04-13 09:06:44)
葡萄牙拜拉省 Beira Litoral 的雞蛋"七鰓鰻" (大量圖片,短片搜索 Lampreia de ovos ) Lampreia de ovos
圖片轉载自:
http://www.ideiasereceitas.com/lampreia-de-ovos/
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葡萄牙傳統炆七鰓鰻 A traditional Portuguese Eel Stew
Ensopado de Enguias is an Portuguese Eel Stew which is very traditional and one of the more unique dishes in Portuguese cuisine. It is one of the most signature dishes all throughout Portugal, especially in the north near the coast line, as well as more south in Ribatejo. In Ribatejo the eels are most typically caught swimming upstream in the enormous Tagus river. This dish combines the wonderful and unique taste of the eels in a rich and flavorful stew.
Source: https://easyportugueserecipes.com/eel-stew-ensopado-de-enguias/
七鰓鰻是一種美食，歐洲的上流社會從中世紀開始就視其為珍饈。文獻記載英格蘭國王亨利一世愛吃七鰓鰻，結果有一次在諾曼第吃了太多的七鰓鰻後死去。直到今天，在南歐的一些國家（法國、西班牙、葡萄牙等），七鰓鰻仍然是一道昂貴的名菜。由於過度捕撈，歐洲的七鰓鰻數量一直在減少。韓國人同樣也食用七鰓鰻。Source: wikipedia
圖片轉载自:
http://www.ideiasereceitas.com/lampreia-de-ovos/
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
葡萄牙傳統炆七鰓鰻 A traditional Portuguese Eel Stew
Ensopado de Enguias is an Portuguese Eel Stew which is very traditional and one of the more unique dishes in Portuguese cuisine. It is one of the most signature dishes all throughout Portugal, especially in the north near the coast line, as well as more south in Ribatejo. In Ribatejo the eels are most typically caught swimming upstream in the enormous Tagus river. This dish combines the wonderful and unique taste of the eels in a rich and flavorful stew.
Source: https://easyportugueserecipes.com/eel-stew-ensopado-de-enguias/
七鰓鰻是一種美食，歐洲的上流社會從中世紀開始就視其為珍饈。文獻記載英格蘭國王亨利一世愛吃七鰓鰻，結果有一次在諾曼第吃了太多的七鰓鰻後死去。直到今天，在南歐的一些國家（法國、西班牙、葡萄牙等），七鰓鰻仍然是一道昂貴的名菜。由於過度捕撈，歐洲的七鰓鰻數量一直在減少。韓國人同樣也食用七鰓鰻。Source: wikipedia
巴利阿里群岛雞蛋牛奶烘餅 图片 (2016-04-13 07:53:08)
Flan 中世纪雞蛋牛奶烘餅 in Ibiza 伊维薩岛, Balearic Islands 巴利阿里群岛, Mediterranean 地中海
圖文轉載自： https://jqlouise.com/2016/03/19/ibiza-in-20-photos/
Ibiza, the White Isle, is one of the big 5 Mediterranean spots: Monaco, Cannes, St. Tropez, Capri and Ibiza. Those are the big ones if you are a lover of sun, sand, and celebrities. Ibiza Town is a typically Mediterranean town: palm trees, cafes, white buildings. And when you get hungry, remember you are on an island–seafood! And finish with flan!
巴利阿里群岛 Flan 的 製法参考 316頁 甜點的歷史 = La tres belle et tres exquise histoire des gateaux et des friandises / 瑪格洛娜.圖桑-撒瑪(Maguelonne Toussaint-Samat)著 ; 譚鍾瑜譯 台北市 博雅書屋有限公司 2011)
Flan 不同名稱有 flaons,flaonnets,flanciaulx, 製作方法大致與 talmouse 相同 134 -135頁 甜點的歷史 中世紀製作的雞蛋牛奶烘餅大多是鹹的, 當時被稱為 flaon, 這字是由古普羅旺斯语的flado而来, flado則為高地德文 222, 288頁 甜點的歷史
示範短片
http://allrecipes.com/recipe/20979/spanish-flan/?src=VD_Summary
圖文轉載自： https://jqlouise.com/2016/03/19/ibiza-in-20-photos/
Ibiza, the White Isle, is one of the big 5 Mediterranean spots: Monaco, Cannes, St. Tropez, Capri and Ibiza. Those are the big ones if you are a lover of sun, sand, and celebrities. Ibiza Town is a typically Mediterranean town: palm trees, cafes, white buildings. And when you get hungry, remember you are on an island–seafood! And finish with flan!
巴利阿里群岛 Flan 的 製法参考 316頁 甜點的歷史 = La tres belle et tres exquise histoire des gateaux et des friandises / 瑪格洛娜.圖桑-撒瑪(Maguelonne Toussaint-Samat)著 ; 譚鍾瑜譯 台北市 博雅書屋有限公司 2011)
Flan 不同名稱有 flaons,flaonnets,flanciaulx, 製作方法大致與 talmouse 相同 134 -135頁 甜點的歷史 中世紀製作的雞蛋牛奶烘餅大多是鹹的, 當時被稱為 flaon, 這字是由古普羅旺斯语的flado而来, flado則為高地德文 222, 288頁 甜點的歷史
示範短片
http://allrecipes.com/recipe/20979/spanish-flan/?src=VD_Summary
英國的精英教育與平民教育 含图片 (2016-04-11 17:48:09)
定居英國的梁潔娥(Leung Kit Ngor,曽任香港主播,註一)以家長角度分析教育制度.
據她觀察,一流的研究和學習機會都是留給接受國際高考的精英和貴族學校畢業生(為數2,500間貴價私校,它們招收了不少香港富商和高官子弟,但不提供中國語文課程的寄宿中學).這些收費不菲的私立學校都自動會将課程加深至國際高考水平,以作招徠.
平民百姓的子弟則到25,000間免費公學入學.但其課程都被一套梁潔娥形容為低水平(平庸,良莠不齊,無競爭,無壓力,悠閒,不鼔勵積極進取,學生於早上9時至下午3時留校)的國内考試制度所局限,只能以不敢恭維形容. 小學畢業生乘數表10以外的11,12便不會了,教師則建議用計算器. 1/4國民的數學水平只達到10歳小兒的能力,很是可悲.
博主分析: 崇尚學習的華人子弟一般都能進入名校深造(並支付鉅額學費),故名人輩出,反而有利. 教育機構亦可嘗試委派中國語文老師放洋授徒. 根據香港多年收取中國留學生的報導,他們的水平比本地高出1至2年,故可直接入名校研究院.
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節目重溫: 香港電臺RTHK.HK Radio 1 Archive 第一台節目重溫 大城小事2016-03-29 第19分鐘開始
http://programme.rthk.org.hk/channel/radio/player_popup.php?pid=3172&eid=351938&d=2016-03-29&player=mp3&type=archive&channel=radio1 (壹年後已停止運作)
註一: 香港大學校友: Mrs Cutmore Leung Kit Ngor Marian 1987大學畢業,定居 Scotland, 任教大學 (己搬走至 Cadsden,倫敦市郊)
source: RTHK.HK
Geoff Cutmore
ｓｏｕｒｃｅ：ＣＮＢＣ
喬夫·吉摩爾（英語：Geoff Cutmore）是CNBC歐洲台記者及主播，於1990年代初於亞洲電視國際台的記者，其後轉為明珠台擔任記者及主播至1996年。現主要採訪香港政治新聞，並同時負責採訪及編寫港聞和內地政治，是一名活躍的採訪記者。 直至1996年中，正式加入CNBC歐洲台至今，現在每逢星期一至五主持《Squawk Box Europe》，主要詳盡所有環球消息，包括阿富汗戰爭等。 喬夫·吉摩爾是英國籍人士。其太太為前無線新聞女主播梁潔娥。 Source: Wikipedia
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有報導自從香港高校放棄殖民地男女大學生按相同比例入學,改為只按分數取錄，结果是大學女生比男生多,從结構上產生不少跨國婚姻,有成為制度化的傾向 (参考博文: 點擊即可
據她觀察,一流的研究和學習機會都是留給接受國際高考的精英和貴族學校畢業生(為數2,500間貴價私校,它們招收了不少香港富商和高官子弟,但不提供中國語文課程的寄宿中學).這些收費不菲的私立學校都自動會将課程加深至國際高考水平,以作招徠.
平民百姓的子弟則到25,000間免費公學入學.但其課程都被一套梁潔娥形容為低水平(平庸,良莠不齊,無競爭,無壓力,悠閒,不鼔勵積極進取,學生於早上9時至下午3時留校)的國内考試制度所局限,只能以不敢恭維形容. 小學畢業生乘數表10以外的11,12便不會了,教師則建議用計算器. 1/4國民的數學水平只達到10歳小兒的能力,很是可悲.
博主分析: 崇尚學習的華人子弟一般都能進入名校深造(並支付鉅額學費),故名人輩出,反而有利. 教育機構亦可嘗試委派中國語文老師放洋授徒. 根據香港多年收取中國留學生的報導,他們的水平比本地高出1至2年,故可直接入名校研究院.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
節目重溫: 香港電臺RTHK.HK Radio 1 Archive 第一台節目重溫 大城小事2016-03-29 第19分鐘開始
http://programme.rthk.org.hk/channel/radio/player_popup.php?pid=3172&eid=351938&d=2016-03-29&player=mp3&type=archive&channel=radio1 (壹年後已停止運作)
註一: 香港大學校友: Mrs Cutmore Leung Kit Ngor Marian 1987大學畢業,定居 Scotland, 任教大學 (己搬走至 Cadsden,倫敦市郊)
source: RTHK.HK
Geoff Cutmore
ｓｏｕｒｃｅ：ＣＮＢＣ
喬夫·吉摩爾（英語：Geoff Cutmore）是CNBC歐洲台記者及主播，於1990年代初於亞洲電視國際台的記者，其後轉為明珠台擔任記者及主播至1996年。現主要採訪香港政治新聞，並同時負責採訪及編寫港聞和內地政治，是一名活躍的採訪記者。 直至1996年中，正式加入CNBC歐洲台至今，現在每逢星期一至五主持《Squawk Box Europe》，主要詳盡所有環球消息，包括阿富汗戰爭等。 喬夫·吉摩爾是英國籍人士。其太太為前無線新聞女主播梁潔娥。 Source: Wikipedia
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有報導自從香港高校放棄殖民地男女大學生按相同比例入學,改為只按分數取錄，结果是大學女生比男生多,從结構上產生不少跨國婚姻,有成為制度化的傾向 (参考博文: 點擊即可
1. 港未婚女逾百萬, 陰陽最失衡 (2016-04-21 10:36:26)
2. 香港高校女多男少2006統計 图片 (2016-04-21 10:01:02)在英國盡展所長的法國大廚Jean-Christophe Novelli "女人不煮我來煮" 此博文包含图片 (2016-04-06 11:35:24
'British women can't cook' LUCY CAVENDISH, EVENING STANDARD Wednesday 13 April 2005 轉載自: http://www.standard.co.uk/goingout/restaurants/british-women-cant-cook-7249316.html 在英國盡展所長的法國大廚Jean-Christophe Novelli "女人不煮我來煮"
Jean-Christophe Novelli poses for a charity calendar There is no doubt that 55-year-old (2016) Jean-Christophe Novelli is an amazingly good-looking man, what with his floppy hair and Frenchfilm-star matinée- idol受女性觀眾歡迎的男演員 appeal. But he is a strange fish. When I first meet him, he seems unengaged. Maybe it's because he is so busy this and checking out that: the new series of Hell's Kitchen, which he is taking over from Gordon Ramsay, his new restaurant, Novelli in the City, running Auberge du Lac, in Brocket Hall, Hertfordshire, or his cookery school in Spain. I have heard that he can be extremely flirtatious輕佻的 . behaving in such a way as to suggest a playful sexual attraction to someone.： 「she was beautiful and very flirtatious」。 But today he looks uninterested, sitting in the corner of the restaurant Rasoi in Chelsea, run by his old friend Vineet Bhatia. He looks as though he's sucking lemons when he looks at the menu. So I ask him about Bhatia. "I lerrrve (love) Vineet," he says, perking up活跃起来. It turns out just about every chef in the UK is Novelli's old friend. He tells me later, in his heavily accented Franglais macaronic mixture of the French (français) and English(anglais) languages.[1], that he "lerves" Raymond Blanc and Marco Pierre White and even Gary Rhodes, with whom he is about to star in Hell's Kitchen 2. "'Ell's Kitchen," he says, playing with a prawn masala. "What a wonderful idea! Do you know something?" He touches my arm. "I was asked to do it first! Me, not 'im! But I said no. I was not ready. It was a big job and maybe I was - oh, what was I?" He bangs his forehead with his palm. "I was stoopeed! I was rash. I was building up my new projects. But no one believes me. It was me who sugested 'im. Me!" The "'im" in question is, of course, Gordon Ramsay. "I lerrrve Gordon Ramsay," says Novelli. "We 'ave been friends for a long time. I thought he was amazing to do 'Ell's Kitchen. It was so 'ard, just 'im on 'is own. I couldn't 'ave done it but now I am very excited. What a privilege to be on television and to cook!" The show's format has changed from the original. Now, instead of celebrities, the culinary students will be members of the public, separated into two teams: one headed by Novelli, the other by Rhodes. So, is he as fiery 燃燒著的 and foul-mouthed as Ramsay? "No, I'm not," he says. "But, like all chefs, I am demanding. I am moody. Some days I am 'appy as a lark. Other days I feel very black." What puts him in these moods? "Everything, nothing," he says. Does he think Gary Rhodes is moody? "No, I don't," he says. "I think he will be a balance. I like 'im. I like the way he cooks. We like to use the same ingredients." Such as what? "Offal. We both like using offal." There is, of course, one major drawback, and that's the problem with his accent. It's so impregnable堅不可摧的 and Inspector Clouseau-ish that, when he is talking about offal, which he pronounces as " erffle", it takes me a while to catch on. And when we get to how amazingly focused he is - "I have always been fercosed," he says - we have a complete communication breakdown. "Do I think people will 'ave a problem with my accent?" he says, raising one of those dark, arched eyebrows. "No! Everyone understands me." But, given the fact that they obviously don't - the waiter also looks mystified when Novelli orders "ze rize wiz ze hegs" - why does he think the producers have singled him out? Novelli looks suspicious. "Why shouldn't they ask me? I'm a good chef. I can do 15 different versions of an omelette. An omelette! And I am so passionate." Yes, well, and it may be precisely for this reason that he's been selected. "Oh," he says, laughing finally. "You mean for the ladies! I lerrrve ladies. I lerrrve dream of English ladies. I'd never marry someone French. They are so, so difficult, French women. They are all full of ... they want this and they want that ... and they don't eat. They wave their forks near their lips and that's it. But women here love to eat. Mind you, they are terrible cooks, terrible. In fact, British women can't cook." "Yes they can," I say rather hotly, as I count myself as a perfectly good cook. Who does he think spends their lives producing endless amounts of meals for their children? "That is not cooking!" he says. "That's just putting whatever things Jamie talks about in the oven. My mother, who lives in France and who is old, lerves (To delight in another's existence beyond what can be expressed with a mundane word like love). Jamie. She calls him James. Anyway, it's men who cook the proper food in this country." I imagine he's going to have to try harder to win over the female quotient of the viewers. Then again, it might not be that difficult because, although he comes out with some unintentional clangers失言, he obviously loves women. "Oh yes, I lerrrve women," he says. "They are so honest. I'd much rather have employed women than men. Look at what happened to me! I was ripped off, you see." By whom? He rolls his eyes dramatically. "Everyone! Especially the men who worked for me. I am convinced they took everything from me." At the end of the Nineties, Novelli's life crashed and burned. He had come over to the UK from northern France, from a working-class family - his father laid electronic cables and his mother was a seamstress - as a young man. "I was working as a private chef for the Rothschilds," he says, "and I was supposed to follow them to America but I fell in love with this country." But what did he love about a country that served chips everywhere? "I could just see the potential," he says. "With hard work, I thought anything could happen. I had had nothing much in my life before. I hated school and was put in the remedial class because I was so naughty." Maybe he's always been a bit compulsive an irresistible urge, I say. After all, making all those omelettes, why? "I love things to be perfect." His talent was spotted by Rick Stein, Jonathan Meades, Marco Pierre White and Keith Floyd, who employed him at the Maltsters Arms in Devon. During the mid- to late-Nineties, his empire grew, and included Maison Novelli in Clerkenwell as well as Novelli W8 and Les Saveurs in Mayfair. But, within a few years, it all went belly up. "I was catastrophically in debt," he says. "I was doing it all by myself - financing the business, running it, training people. I was smoking 40 a day and drinking too much. I had grown wild. I was barely able to speak." Eventually, the doors closed on one after another of his restaurants. By 1999, he was left with only Maison Novelli. "It was crazy," he says. "The baliffs were at the front of the restaurant and I was ushering people in and out of the back door." His friend Marco Pierre White offered to bail him out but to no avail. "I lost everything," he says. "Even my marriage." At the time he was married to his second wife, a South African model called Anzelle Visser. "She was a lovely girl," he says. "But I had nothing to offer." He's certainly on the rise now. His restaurants are doing well, he says. But the main thing that has changed his life is his burgeoning relationship with his 19-year-old daughter, Christina, whose mother is his first wife, Tina. "I always saw Christina," he says, "but the relationship with her mother got, er, tricky." It turned out that, eight years after they married, the first Mrs Novelli had an affair. "I was working long hours," says Novelli. They divorced but, when he came to divorce his second wife, it turned out he was never technically divorced from his first wife as he'd never signed the decree absolute. This "forgetfulness" is not surprising. "I was hopeless," he says. "I never looked at anything apart from my business. Do I look like a bigamist!" But it's all turned out well because Christina now works with him when she's not being a musician. Novelli is immensely proud. "She is an angel! A delight! So talented!" What's happening in his love life now? Will there be a third Mrs Novelli? He looks very uncomfortable. "What do you mean by that?" he says. I say he's been linked with a whole host of glamorous women. "Oh, for goodness' sake! I talk to someone at a party and ... it's not sex, you know. But I am looking for love!" he laughs. "I'd like a son. I want him to play football for France or represent England in the Olympics. Either will do. I am French and English, you see." I imagine he is tricky to live with even though he has now swapped the madness of his life in London for a country idyll near Brocket Hall. It's because he's so driven. "I always push myself," he says. "I am proud of that. When my life looked in tattersirregularly torn pieces of cloth did I give up? No. I started up again and I cleaned my life up. Now I will be on television. I've always wanted to do it but in the past it would make me sullen depressed and worried. But I'm not like that now." That doesn't explain why he was so unenthusiastic at the start of our interview. "My 'ead was full of stuff," he says. "I was worrying about that prawn." What was wrong with it? "Nothing. I just wanted to understand the taste of it, the feel of it. Detail is so important, you see." He then kisses me on both cheeks and I realise he can be rather delicious. The public's going to lap him up, I say. "I 'ope so," he says, then he winks and disappears, leaving me feeling rather deflated. 進一歩閲讀https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jean-Christophe_Novelli
Jean-Christophe Novelli poses for a charity calendar There is no doubt that 55-year-old (2016) Jean-Christophe Novelli is an amazingly good-looking man, what with his floppy hair and Frenchfilm-star matinée- idol受女性觀眾歡迎的男演員 appeal. But he is a strange fish. When I first meet him, he seems unengaged. Maybe it's because he is so busy this and checking out that: the new series of Hell's Kitchen, which he is taking over from Gordon Ramsay, his new restaurant, Novelli in the City, running Auberge du Lac, in Brocket Hall, Hertfordshire, or his cookery school in Spain. I have heard that he can be extremely flirtatious輕佻的 . behaving in such a way as to suggest a playful sexual attraction to someone.： 「she was beautiful and very flirtatious」。 But today he looks uninterested, sitting in the corner of the restaurant Rasoi in Chelsea, run by his old friend Vineet Bhatia. He looks as though he's sucking lemons when he looks at the menu. So I ask him about Bhatia. "I lerrrve (love) Vineet," he says, perking up活跃起来. It turns out just about every chef in the UK is Novelli's old friend. He tells me later, in his heavily accented Franglais macaronic mixture of the French (français) and English(anglais) languages.[1], that he "lerves" Raymond Blanc and Marco Pierre White and even Gary Rhodes, with whom he is about to star in Hell's Kitchen 2. "'Ell's Kitchen," he says, playing with a prawn masala. "What a wonderful idea! Do you know something?" He touches my arm. "I was asked to do it first! Me, not 'im! But I said no. I was not ready. It was a big job and maybe I was - oh, what was I?" He bangs his forehead with his palm. "I was stoopeed! I was rash. I was building up my new projects. But no one believes me. It was me who sugested 'im. Me!" The "'im" in question is, of course, Gordon Ramsay. "I lerrrve Gordon Ramsay," says Novelli. "We 'ave been friends for a long time. I thought he was amazing to do 'Ell's Kitchen. It was so 'ard, just 'im on 'is own. I couldn't 'ave done it but now I am very excited. What a privilege to be on television and to cook!" The show's format has changed from the original. Now, instead of celebrities, the culinary students will be members of the public, separated into two teams: one headed by Novelli, the other by Rhodes. So, is he as fiery 燃燒著的 and foul-mouthed as Ramsay? "No, I'm not," he says. "But, like all chefs, I am demanding. I am moody. Some days I am 'appy as a lark. Other days I feel very black." What puts him in these moods? "Everything, nothing," he says. Does he think Gary Rhodes is moody? "No, I don't," he says. "I think he will be a balance. I like 'im. I like the way he cooks. We like to use the same ingredients." Such as what? "Offal. We both like using offal." There is, of course, one major drawback, and that's the problem with his accent. It's so impregnable堅不可摧的 and Inspector Clouseau-ish that, when he is talking about offal, which he pronounces as " erffle", it takes me a while to catch on. And when we get to how amazingly focused he is - "I have always been fercosed," he says - we have a complete communication breakdown. "Do I think people will 'ave a problem with my accent?" he says, raising one of those dark, arched eyebrows. "No! Everyone understands me." But, given the fact that they obviously don't - the waiter also looks mystified when Novelli orders "ze rize wiz ze hegs" - why does he think the producers have singled him out? Novelli looks suspicious. "Why shouldn't they ask me? I'm a good chef. I can do 15 different versions of an omelette. An omelette! And I am so passionate." Yes, well, and it may be precisely for this reason that he's been selected. "Oh," he says, laughing finally. "You mean for the ladies! I lerrrve ladies. I lerrrve dream of English ladies. I'd never marry someone French. They are so, so difficult, French women. They are all full of ... they want this and they want that ... and they don't eat. They wave their forks near their lips and that's it. But women here love to eat. Mind you, they are terrible cooks, terrible. In fact, British women can't cook." "Yes they can," I say rather hotly, as I count myself as a perfectly good cook. Who does he think spends their lives producing endless amounts of meals for their children? "That is not cooking!" he says. "That's just putting whatever things Jamie talks about in the oven. My mother, who lives in France and who is old, lerves (To delight in another's existence beyond what can be expressed with a mundane word like love). Jamie. She calls him James. Anyway, it's men who cook the proper food in this country." I imagine he's going to have to try harder to win over the female quotient of the viewers. Then again, it might not be that difficult because, although he comes out with some unintentional clangers失言, he obviously loves women. "Oh yes, I lerrrve women," he says. "They are so honest. I'd much rather have employed women than men. Look at what happened to me! I was ripped off, you see." By whom? He rolls his eyes dramatically. "Everyone! Especially the men who worked for me. I am convinced they took everything from me." At the end of the Nineties, Novelli's life crashed and burned. He had come over to the UK from northern France, from a working-class family - his father laid electronic cables and his mother was a seamstress - as a young man. "I was working as a private chef for the Rothschilds," he says, "and I was supposed to follow them to America but I fell in love with this country." But what did he love about a country that served chips everywhere? "I could just see the potential," he says. "With hard work, I thought anything could happen. I had had nothing much in my life before. I hated school and was put in the remedial class because I was so naughty." Maybe he's always been a bit compulsive an irresistible urge, I say. After all, making all those omelettes, why? "I love things to be perfect." His talent was spotted by Rick Stein, Jonathan Meades, Marco Pierre White and Keith Floyd, who employed him at the Maltsters Arms in Devon. During the mid- to late-Nineties, his empire grew, and included Maison Novelli in Clerkenwell as well as Novelli W8 and Les Saveurs in Mayfair. But, within a few years, it all went belly up. "I was catastrophically in debt," he says. "I was doing it all by myself - financing the business, running it, training people. I was smoking 40 a day and drinking too much. I had grown wild. I was barely able to speak." Eventually, the doors closed on one after another of his restaurants. By 1999, he was left with only Maison Novelli. "It was crazy," he says. "The baliffs were at the front of the restaurant and I was ushering people in and out of the back door." His friend Marco Pierre White offered to bail him out but to no avail. "I lost everything," he says. "Even my marriage." At the time he was married to his second wife, a South African model called Anzelle Visser. "She was a lovely girl," he says. "But I had nothing to offer." He's certainly on the rise now. His restaurants are doing well, he says. But the main thing that has changed his life is his burgeoning relationship with his 19-year-old daughter, Christina, whose mother is his first wife, Tina. "I always saw Christina," he says, "but the relationship with her mother got, er, tricky." It turned out that, eight years after they married, the first Mrs Novelli had an affair. "I was working long hours," says Novelli. They divorced but, when he came to divorce his second wife, it turned out he was never technically divorced from his first wife as he'd never signed the decree absolute. This "forgetfulness" is not surprising. "I was hopeless," he says. "I never looked at anything apart from my business. Do I look like a bigamist!" But it's all turned out well because Christina now works with him when she's not being a musician. Novelli is immensely proud. "She is an angel! A delight! So talented!" What's happening in his love life now? Will there be a third Mrs Novelli? He looks very uncomfortable. "What do you mean by that?" he says. I say he's been linked with a whole host of glamorous women. "Oh, for goodness' sake! I talk to someone at a party and ... it's not sex, you know. But I am looking for love!" he laughs. "I'd like a son. I want him to play football for France or represent England in the Olympics. Either will do. I am French and English, you see." I imagine he is tricky to live with even though he has now swapped the madness of his life in London for a country idyll near Brocket Hall. It's because he's so driven. "I always push myself," he says. "I am proud of that. When my life looked in tattersirregularly torn pieces of cloth did I give up? No. I started up again and I cleaned my life up. Now I will be on television. I've always wanted to do it but in the past it would make me sullen depressed and worried. But I'm not like that now." That doesn't explain why he was so unenthusiastic at the start of our interview. "My 'ead was full of stuff," he says. "I was worrying about that prawn." What was wrong with it? "Nothing. I just wanted to understand the taste of it, the feel of it. Detail is so important, you see." He then kisses me on both cheeks and I realise he can be rather delicious. The public's going to lap him up, I say. "I 'ope so," he says, then he winks and disappears, leaving me feeling rather deflated. 進一歩閲讀https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jean-Christophe_Novelli
亞拉伯飲食對中世紀英國的影響 (2016-04-05 10:31:32)
If the late medieval cuisine of the West was directly indebted to any one source, it was to the Arabs, the cultural middlemen of the post-Classical world. From their synthesis of Roman, Persian and desert-nomad foods, Europe's cooks borrowed many, perhaps most, of the techniques and materials they needed to solve their own pressing problems. p184, Tannahill, Reay, Food in History, New York: Three Rivers Press, 1988
註一 : http://www.standard.co.uk/news/london/drinking-treated-sewage-could-be-the-answer-to-the-capitals-water-shortage-says-thames-water-8608672.html
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在中世紀,埃及烹飪獲得了最高聲譽 220頁 烹飪,菜餚與階級(Cooking, cuisine and class : a study in comparative sociology / 傑克.古迪(Jack Goody, died on 16 July 2015, aged 95)著 ; 王榮欣, 沈南山譯. 2012 廣場出版
從8世纪起，美味精緻的阿拉伯-安達鲁西亞al-Andalus菜餚極受歐洲好評，既是鹹甜味混雜菜式的冠軍，也是老饕的最愛 65頁 甜點的歷史 = La tres belle et tres exquise histoire des gateaux et des friandises / 瑪格洛娜.圖桑-撒瑪(Maguelonne Toussaint-Samat)著 ; 譚鍾瑜譯 台北市 博雅書屋有限公司 2011
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Jean-Louis Flandrin (1931 - 2001) 認為中世紀英國的烹飪受到阿拉伯菜的影響比法國菜更深 149頁,飲食與愛情 : 東方與西方的文化史 = Food and love : a cultural history of East and West / 傑克.顧迪(Jack Goody)著 ; 楊惠君譯. 台北 聯經, 2004
There is general agreement that the Arabs introduced into Europe a number of tropical plants - including rice (博主註一), sorghum, sugarcane, spinach, eggplant, watermelon, apricot, lemon and bitter orange. Until the sixteenth century most spices were imported by way of Muslim countries. Saffron, however, did enter Europe through Spain p221 Food: A Culinary History, ed by Jean-Louis Flandrin & Massimo Montanari, ch.17 “Arab Cuisine and Its Contribution to European Culture” by Bernard Rosenberger
博主註一：早於普拉蒂納 (Bartolomeo Platina, 1421-1481)的年代，欧洲已經在使用安達鲁西亞的米做了十多款炸糕 beignet 了。米是由摩爾人或葡萄牙人或倫巴底人運入欧洲的，它的氣候只能進口米。 普拉蒂納 Platina 在1465年出版的正當的享樂 De honesta voluptate 一書中用拉丁文收録了苦炸糕，脹氣炸糕，米炸糕，蘋果炸糕，凝乳炸糕，杏仁炸糕，無花果炸糕，蛋白炸糕 ，鼠尾草炸糕，月桂葉炸糕 ，接骨木花炸糕 ...... 136頁甜點的歷史 = La tres belle et tres exquise histoire des gateaux et des friandises / 瑪格洛娜.圖桑-撒瑪(Maguelonne Toussaint-Samat)著 ; 譚鍾瑜譯 台北市 博雅書屋有限公司 2011
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中古世紀晚期西方烹飪書中的名菜往往顯露出穆斯林的影響,菜式中有明顯的穆斯林特色,或是採用了顯然是阿拉伯的材料,190頁 食物的歷史 : 透視人類的飲食與文明 = Food : a history / 菲立普.費南德茲-阿梅斯托著 ; 韓良憶譯, 新店 左岸文化, 2005 直至非常晩近,西歐都依照阿拉伯飲食的規則,而它們是從希臘醫生那裏継承來的 225頁, 烹飪,菜餚與階級(Cooking, cuisine and class : a study in comparative sociology / 傑克.古迪(Jack Goody, died on 16 July 2015, aged 95)著 ; 王榮欣, 沈南山譯. 2012 廣場出版
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Just as Spain had learned of marzipan 杏仁蛋白糊 and nougat 牛軋糖 from the Arabs, so India discovered the delights of sugar candy. Predominantly Muslim cities like Dacca 達卡and Lucknow 北方邦勒克瑙县became, and have remained, the great sweetmeat 糖果；蜜餞 centres of the sub-continent p272, Tannahill, Reay, Food in History, New York: Three Rivers Press, 1988
法國西南部的牛軋糖由西班牙的摩爾人傳来 165頁. 所有伊斯蘭教軍隊經過的土地都可見到用摺疊千層酥皮麵團 lasagne 製成的糕點，可以在欧洲稱為遊遍天涯了，英格蘭人稱之為 puff pastry 153， 229, 303頁 甜點的歷史 = La tres belle et tres exquise histoire des gateaux et des friandises / 瑪格洛娜.圖桑-撒瑪(Maguelonne Toussaint-Samat)著 ; 譚鍾瑜譯 台北市 博雅書屋有限公司 2011
與法國關係深遠的馬格里布北非三國:摩洛哥,阿爾及利亞和突尼斯,自古以來,此地的菜餚一直因其甜味特徵而受到重視,更是歐洲大部份菜餚的母親,而其阿拉伯- 安達魯西亞al-Andalus源頭,則至少有一千年以上.這三個國家的共同聯繫是普遍偏好非常甜且香氣濃烈的食物,毎個地方都選用蜂蜜.地中海沿岸各地-從前和現在都處於阿拉伯影響之下-能烹調出極為多樣化的甜點292-293頁 甜點的歷史
巴利阿里群島 Balearic Islands (包括伊維薩島Ibiza) 至今仍非常喜歡甜鰻魚糕,雖然此道菜餚並不屬於主菜間的甜食或飯後甜點,卻是中世紀菜餚源於阿拉伯 - 加泰隆尼亞 - 安達魯西亞的見證 (参考博文安達魯西亞马拉加甜鰻魚糕 smoked eel terrine(瓦罐) 14.4.2016). 在十四和十五世紀的歐洲宮廷中,加泰隆尼亞廚師的評價甚高. 1324年,有位侍奉英國國王的加泰隆尼亞廚師寫了一本食譜書,名為聖救主之書 Llibre de Sent Soví p.315 甜點的歷史
因此,六百多年來,芙勞(可譯成法文的雞蛋牛奶烘餅flan),一直是伊维薩岛Ibiza上的復活節美食.相當具有現代風味的芙勞,其材料與作法在西班牙最古老的中世紀食譜書中便已有詳細的記載.這種塔tart是真正的美味,特別是趁熱食用時 (参考博文巴利阿里群岛雞蛋牛奶烘餅, 13.4.2016)
至於手環形狀的加泰隆尼亞小甜點羅斯奎利亞 rosquille 可說是西班牙的代表甜點,跨國的大型製餅產業將這種甜點塞滿了法國,西班牙瓦爾省及全歐洲的超級市場陳列架. 在葡萄牙的甜點中,沿海的拜拉省那驚人的雞蛋"七鰓鰻"( 搜索 lampreia de ovos)幾乎與當地的高級葡萄酒一樣遠近馳名.從文化記錄來看,雞蛋"七鰓鰻"可說與古老的科英布拉大學歷史相當 Universidade de Coimbra 1290 年
博主分析:此為仿七鰓鰻甜品,做法見317頁 315-317頁, 甜點的歷史 (参考博文葡萄牙甜點雞蛋"七鰓鰻"與傳統炆七鰓鰻 13.4.2016)
阿拉伯人是水果蜜餞公認的發明者371頁, 甜點的歷史 (candied fruit 裹了糖粉的蜜餞 succade 糖漬水果、蜜餞 crystallized fruit 外表比較晶透的蜜餞類型 conserves 果醬、蜜餞)
加泰隆尼亞人可說是製作奶醬的權威,不論是著名的焦糖布丁,或是放了肉桂和新鮮杏仁的牛奶奶醬.牛奶奶醬是阿拉伯-安達魯西亞菜餚al-Andalus的偉大遺產,是從前的佔領者留給潔隆納省的修女的.(参考博文加泰隆尼亞奶醬, 20.4.2016) 今日,我們尤其不能忘記著名的香料味加泰隆尼亞奶醬,因為國際性的農產食品公司早已把其自有的工業版本奶醬滿滿地塞在超市的貨架上.只有真正的加泰隆尼亞奶醬才含有八角,迄是這是其香氣獨樹一幟的秘密 289頁 甜點的歷史
法國西南部的 pastis 是 Poitiers 之役後摩爾人所遗留下来的 303頁 甜點的歷史
法國西南部的牛軋糖 touron,類似杏仁開心果蛋白糖類小甜點,由西班牙的摩爾人傳来 165頁 甜點的歷史
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地中海的産物和影響力在中世紀已經可以直達英國;英國的船隻到西西里買糖,然後從葡萄牙帶回甜葡萄酒。Jean-Louis Flandrin (1931 - 2001) 認為中世紀英國的烹飪受到阿拉伯菜的影響比法國菜更深149頁 飲食與愛情 : 東方與西方的文化史 = Food and love : a cultural history of East and West / 傑克.顧迪(Jack Goody)著 ; 楊惠君譯. 台北 聯經, 2004.
文藝復興時期在地中海産品的取得上,法國北部和英國並没有太大的差別(不過英國進口糖數量遠勝於前者,根據記載,英國人一半的菜餚裡都放糖)140頁 歐洲的美食文化隨着文藝復興而復活。在16世纪中葉的義大利，往往為高階级人士凖備極大量昂貴的食物。英國16及17世紀初在飲食和娯樂上的花費也把國家給吃窮了134頁 飲食與愛情 : 東方與西方的文化史
博主分析: 1704 西班牙直布羅陀Gibraltar即淪為英國殖民地至今, 反映出兩國關係之密切, 比 1707 蘇格蘭聯盟英格蘭更早。
西西里也許是喜好美食的義大利最講究美食的省份,亦曾是整個義大利半島的美食之源,曾被穆斯林和當時统治英國的諾曼地人统治過，與其他義大利人不同,西西里人對甜點的態度積極熱情,為數不少的甜食是薩拉森穆斯林佔領時期的遺產 ...要把義大利的甜點講完必須出一本專書才成 330 - 332頁 甜點的歷史 = La tres belle et tres exquise histoire des gateaux et des friandises / 瑪格洛娜.圖桑-撒瑪(Maguelonne Toussaint-Samat)著 ; 譚鍾瑜譯 台北市 博雅書屋有限公司 2011
科西嘉人素来是法國復活節糕點的冠軍 268頁 甜點的歷史
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Llibre de Sent Soví 聖救主之書 (侍奉英國國王的加泰隆尼亞廚師寫的中世紀歐洲食譜 博主註二)
The Llibre de Sent Soví (1324) is a réceptaire the medieval kitchen written in language Catalan by an anonymous author.There are two original copies manuscripts, which are kept at the University of Valencia ( manuscript n o 216 of the general library and history of the University of Valencia ) and the University Library in Barcelona . It was published for the first time in1952 by the General and scholar Lluís Faraudo Saint-Germain 2 , which published many other medieval texts. Others commented editions were performed thereafter. This text is a fundamental historical source for research on the history of food in Europe medieval , and in particular on the origins of Catalan cuisine . Source: Wikipedia
博主註二：修道院讓西元五百年以降遭蠻族侵害的西方文明得以倖存 147頁 甜點的歷史
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以下摘自: Felipe Fernandez-Armesto, Near a thousand tables : a history of food, New York, The Free Press, 2004
Indeed, courtly eating styles in the West have always been imitated from other cultures. In classical antiquity, upper-class foodways were denounced by Horace as “Persian” and by a Greek proverb as “Sicilian.” When what Gibbon called “the triumph of barbarism and religion” interrupted the continuity of Western civilization, memories of Greek and Roman cuisine grew dim. Western courts looked to Islam for culinary inspiration. This is odd, on the face of it, Christendom and Islam were rival civilizations, formally at war, locked in mutual hatred. Crusading propaganda depicted Muslims as demons. In Islam, Christians were seen as vice personified. Yet at a high level of culture the world of Islam commanded admiration and imitation. In the tenth century, when Gerbert of Aurillac - an emperor’s tutor and a future pope - wanted to learn mathematics, he went to Muslim Spain. The same route was followed by would-be practitioners of magic, seekers of the latest medical wisdom and collectors of ancient texts. Thanks to scholars working in Syriac and Arabic since the fall of the Roman Empire, a formidable corpus of manuscripts unknown in the West, including fundamental texts of Aristotle and Ptolemy, was preserved in libraries in lands under Muslim rule. As general Islamic superiority in science and medicine was then beyond cavil吹毛求疵,so, too, the specific advantage in what might be classed as “food sciences,” such as agriculture and practical gardening. For cooking is a kind of alchemy, which transmutes base ingredients into luxuries. And the medicine of the period was, in great measure, a science of diet. Specific prophylactics預防療法 were few but nourishment was known to conduce to health; the distinction between medicine and good food was inexact and the medicinal properties of foodstuffs were diligently monitored, recorded and reflected in kitchen practice. Science, magic and cookery blended into one another with no formally distinguished limits. Frederick II...Peter the Cruel of Castile...These royal Islamophiles 向往穆師林文化者were extreme but not altogether unrepresentative cases of elite values in high - medieval Christendom; there was a strong tendency to cannibalize 拆取 Muslim wisdom and defer 推遲或服從 to Muslim taste (博主註三). The culinary arts of Muslim courts became the fodder (dried hay or feed, for cattle) of Western recipe books when these began to appear on a significant scale in the thirteenth century.The West absorbed influences in three main areas: the aesthetics of the table, an accent on certain traditional exotic ingredients and a bias toward rich, sweet flavors. The aesthetics of food in Muslin courts resembled the aesthetics of the sacred arts in the West - a bias toward goldsmithy and jewelwork, which it was the aim of the best cooks to echo. They used saffron for gilding 鍍金, sugar like diamonds and meat sliced alternately in white and dark “like gold and silver coin,” according to the tenth-century text known as The Baghdad Cook. They made dishes to imitate carnelians 紅玉髓 and pearls. Just as sacred spaces and altars were heavily censed in Christendom, so royal banqueting halls and tables in Islam were perfumed with heavy aromas. Sweet flavors and scented ingredients were the most esteemed. Milk of almonds, ground almonds, rose water and extracts of other perfumed flowers, sugar and all the spices of the East - to which the Islamic world had privileged access by comparison with Christendom - became essential ingredients. ...Dishes prominent in late-medieval Western cookery books regularly betray Muslim influence by these unmistakable signs, or by the inclusion of telltale ingredients, such as pomegranate seeds, raisin paste or sumac漆樹 berries sweetened with almonds. p.119-121 Felipe Fernandez-Armesto, Near a thousandtables : a history of food, New York, The Free Press, 2004 中譯本: 食物的歷史 = Food : a history / [美]菲利普.費爾南德斯.阿莫斯圖著 ; 何舒平譯,北京 中信 2005
博主註三: 這就是Norman Daniel 之 cultural filter, 指技術上學習模彷是首要任務,文化分歧則放第二位,慢慢考慮如何處理, 可以是推遲, 可以是服從
Daniel, Norman, Cultural Barrier, 文化屏障 / 諾曼。丹尼爾著 ; 王奮宇 ... [等]譯,杭州 : 浙江人民, 1992
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The aristocracy of Europe despised the use of vegetables and ate a mainly meat diet. Consequently, they suffered widely from gout 痛風. The arrival of sweets, jams and preserves created another problem: constipation 便秘, through neglect of the recommendations of Muslim physicians. Thus, we learn from the chronicles of the Pope in Avignon in the 14th century, that boats from Beirut brought jams, preserves, rice and special flour for cake-making, plus compensatory 補充的 laxatives!瀉藥 Source: http://muslimheritage.com/article/influence-islamic-culinary-art-europe
1585年大批可可豆從 Veracruz 運到西班牙，儘管價格高昂，卻销售得非常之快。從英格蘭開始，巧克力風潮在整個十八世紀遍及全歐，但德國仍長期将之視為藥品 90頁 （普鲁士對於安地列斯群岛的蔗糖和奴隸販賣没有任何的興趣 73頁） 甜點的歷史 = La tres belle et tres exquise histoire des gateaux et des friandises / 瑪格洛娜.圖桑-撒瑪(Maguelonne Toussaint-Samat)著 ; 譚鍾瑜譯 台北市 博雅書屋有限公司 2011
哈布斯堡大公1581年引進安達鲁西亞骏馬给南奥地利Styrie,其後皇帝查爾斯四世 1730 年創立维也納西班牙馬術學校 302頁 甜點的歷史 (The Royal Andalusian School of Equestrian Art is a riding school comparable to the Spanish Riding School in Vienna, Austria. Source: Wikipedia)
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参考: Adamson, Melitta Weiss, ed. (2002) Regional Cuisines of Medieval Europe: A Book of Essays, Chapter 4: Medieval Britain, Routledge; Reprint edition (June 4, 2012)
Spencer, Colin, British food : an extraordinary thousand years of history , London : Grub Street, 2002.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Medieval_cuisine
http://muslimheritage.com/article/influence-islamic-culinary-art-europe
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目前此研究范圍正由英國270萬穆斯林,法國470萬穆斯林不断完善及集腋成裘,請多收集網上資料.
歐洲大部份地區降雨頻繁並不需要複雜的水資源管理技術.
中世紀阿尔卑斯山脉以北最大的城市倫敦只有
3.5萬人，而西班牙的摩尓人在科尔多瓦通过灌溉农业养育了上百萬人口 155頁,
全球水危機 : 節約用水從我做起 = When the rivers run dry / [英]弗雷德.皮爾斯著 ;
張新明譯.北京智識產權出版社 2010 今日倫敦市民喝的泰晤士河水其實已完成多次(傳說是7至10次,
註一)飲用和排放的循環了195頁.
總结經過大殖民時代的經驗,發展中國家(印度,非洲)傳統集雨智慧和技術比歐洲水利文明修建的大型調水工程更有效,中東地區人仕更無視西方工程規範,沿用着自己過去收集雨水的方法
223頁
現時倫敦每天缺水12.5萬公噸.
現時倫敦每天缺水12.5萬公噸.
註一 : http://www.standard.co.uk/news/london/drinking-treated-sewage-could-be-the-answer-to-the-capitals-water-shortage-says-thames-water-8608672.html
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在中世紀,埃及烹飪獲得了最高聲譽 220頁 烹飪,菜餚與階級(Cooking, cuisine and class : a study in comparative sociology / 傑克.古迪(Jack Goody, died on 16 July 2015, aged 95)著 ; 王榮欣, 沈南山譯. 2012 廣場出版
從8世纪起，美味精緻的阿拉伯-安達鲁西亞al-Andalus菜餚極受歐洲好評，既是鹹甜味混雜菜式的冠軍，也是老饕的最愛 65頁 甜點的歷史 = La tres belle et tres exquise histoire des gateaux et des friandises / 瑪格洛娜.圖桑-撒瑪(Maguelonne Toussaint-Samat)著 ; 譚鍾瑜譯 台北市 博雅書屋有限公司 2011
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Jean-Louis Flandrin (1931 - 2001) 認為中世紀英國的烹飪受到阿拉伯菜的影響比法國菜更深 149頁,飲食與愛情 : 東方與西方的文化史 = Food and love : a cultural history of East and West / 傑克.顧迪(Jack Goody)著 ; 楊惠君譯. 台北 聯經, 2004
There is general agreement that the Arabs introduced into Europe a number of tropical plants - including rice (博主註一), sorghum, sugarcane, spinach, eggplant, watermelon, apricot, lemon and bitter orange. Until the sixteenth century most spices were imported by way of Muslim countries. Saffron, however, did enter Europe through Spain p221 Food: A Culinary History, ed by Jean-Louis Flandrin & Massimo Montanari, ch.17 “Arab Cuisine and Its Contribution to European Culture” by Bernard Rosenberger
博主註一：早於普拉蒂納 (Bartolomeo Platina, 1421-1481)的年代，欧洲已經在使用安達鲁西亞的米做了十多款炸糕 beignet 了。米是由摩爾人或葡萄牙人或倫巴底人運入欧洲的，它的氣候只能進口米。 普拉蒂納 Platina 在1465年出版的正當的享樂 De honesta voluptate 一書中用拉丁文收録了苦炸糕，脹氣炸糕，米炸糕，蘋果炸糕，凝乳炸糕，杏仁炸糕，無花果炸糕，蛋白炸糕 ，鼠尾草炸糕，月桂葉炸糕 ，接骨木花炸糕 ...... 136頁甜點的歷史 = La tres belle et tres exquise histoire des gateaux et des friandises / 瑪格洛娜.圖桑-撒瑪(Maguelonne Toussaint-Samat)著 ; 譚鍾瑜譯 台北市 博雅書屋有限公司 2011
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中古世紀晚期西方烹飪書中的名菜往往顯露出穆斯林的影響,菜式中有明顯的穆斯林特色,或是採用了顯然是阿拉伯的材料,190頁 食物的歷史 : 透視人類的飲食與文明 = Food : a history / 菲立普.費南德茲-阿梅斯托著 ; 韓良憶譯, 新店 左岸文化, 2005 直至非常晩近,西歐都依照阿拉伯飲食的規則,而它們是從希臘醫生那裏継承來的 225頁, 烹飪,菜餚與階級(Cooking, cuisine and class : a study in comparative sociology / 傑克.古迪(Jack Goody, died on 16 July 2015, aged 95)著 ; 王榮欣, 沈南山譯. 2012 廣場出版
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Just as Spain had learned of marzipan 杏仁蛋白糊 and nougat 牛軋糖 from the Arabs, so India discovered the delights of sugar candy. Predominantly Muslim cities like Dacca 達卡and Lucknow 北方邦勒克瑙县became, and have remained, the great sweetmeat 糖果；蜜餞 centres of the sub-continent p272, Tannahill, Reay, Food in History, New York: Three Rivers Press, 1988
法國西南部的牛軋糖由西班牙的摩爾人傳来 165頁. 所有伊斯蘭教軍隊經過的土地都可見到用摺疊千層酥皮麵團 lasagne 製成的糕點，可以在欧洲稱為遊遍天涯了，英格蘭人稱之為 puff pastry 153， 229, 303頁 甜點的歷史 = La tres belle et tres exquise histoire des gateaux et des friandises / 瑪格洛娜.圖桑-撒瑪(Maguelonne Toussaint-Samat)著 ; 譚鍾瑜譯 台北市 博雅書屋有限公司 2011
與法國關係深遠的馬格里布北非三國:摩洛哥,阿爾及利亞和突尼斯,自古以來,此地的菜餚一直因其甜味特徵而受到重視,更是歐洲大部份菜餚的母親,而其阿拉伯- 安達魯西亞al-Andalus源頭,則至少有一千年以上.這三個國家的共同聯繫是普遍偏好非常甜且香氣濃烈的食物,毎個地方都選用蜂蜜.地中海沿岸各地-從前和現在都處於阿拉伯影響之下-能烹調出極為多樣化的甜點292-293頁 甜點的歷史
巴利阿里群島 Balearic Islands (包括伊維薩島Ibiza) 至今仍非常喜歡甜鰻魚糕,雖然此道菜餚並不屬於主菜間的甜食或飯後甜點,卻是中世紀菜餚源於阿拉伯 - 加泰隆尼亞 - 安達魯西亞的見證 (参考博文安達魯西亞马拉加甜鰻魚糕 smoked eel terrine(瓦罐) 14.4.2016). 在十四和十五世紀的歐洲宮廷中,加泰隆尼亞廚師的評價甚高. 1324年,有位侍奉英國國王的加泰隆尼亞廚師寫了一本食譜書,名為聖救主之書 Llibre de Sent Soví p.315 甜點的歷史
因此,六百多年來,芙勞(可譯成法文的雞蛋牛奶烘餅flan),一直是伊维薩岛Ibiza上的復活節美食.相當具有現代風味的芙勞,其材料與作法在西班牙最古老的中世紀食譜書中便已有詳細的記載.這種塔tart是真正的美味,特別是趁熱食用時 (参考博文巴利阿里群岛雞蛋牛奶烘餅, 13.4.2016)
至於手環形狀的加泰隆尼亞小甜點羅斯奎利亞 rosquille 可說是西班牙的代表甜點,跨國的大型製餅產業將這種甜點塞滿了法國,西班牙瓦爾省及全歐洲的超級市場陳列架. 在葡萄牙的甜點中,沿海的拜拉省那驚人的雞蛋"七鰓鰻"( 搜索 lampreia de ovos)幾乎與當地的高級葡萄酒一樣遠近馳名.從文化記錄來看,雞蛋"七鰓鰻"可說與古老的科英布拉大學歷史相當 Universidade de Coimbra 1290 年
博主分析:此為仿七鰓鰻甜品,做法見317頁 315-317頁, 甜點的歷史 (参考博文葡萄牙甜點雞蛋"七鰓鰻"與傳統炆七鰓鰻 13.4.2016)
阿拉伯人是水果蜜餞公認的發明者371頁, 甜點的歷史 (candied fruit 裹了糖粉的蜜餞 succade 糖漬水果、蜜餞 crystallized fruit 外表比較晶透的蜜餞類型 conserves 果醬、蜜餞)
加泰隆尼亞人可說是製作奶醬的權威,不論是著名的焦糖布丁,或是放了肉桂和新鮮杏仁的牛奶奶醬.牛奶奶醬是阿拉伯-安達魯西亞菜餚al-Andalus的偉大遺產,是從前的佔領者留給潔隆納省的修女的.(参考博文加泰隆尼亞奶醬, 20.4.2016) 今日,我們尤其不能忘記著名的香料味加泰隆尼亞奶醬,因為國際性的農產食品公司早已把其自有的工業版本奶醬滿滿地塞在超市的貨架上.只有真正的加泰隆尼亞奶醬才含有八角,迄是這是其香氣獨樹一幟的秘密 289頁 甜點的歷史
法國西南部的 pastis 是 Poitiers 之役後摩爾人所遗留下来的 303頁 甜點的歷史
法國西南部的牛軋糖 touron,類似杏仁開心果蛋白糖類小甜點,由西班牙的摩爾人傳来 165頁 甜點的歷史
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地中海的産物和影響力在中世紀已經可以直達英國;英國的船隻到西西里買糖,然後從葡萄牙帶回甜葡萄酒。Jean-Louis Flandrin (1931 - 2001) 認為中世紀英國的烹飪受到阿拉伯菜的影響比法國菜更深149頁 飲食與愛情 : 東方與西方的文化史 = Food and love : a cultural history of East and West / 傑克.顧迪(Jack Goody)著 ; 楊惠君譯. 台北 聯經, 2004.
文藝復興時期在地中海産品的取得上,法國北部和英國並没有太大的差別(不過英國進口糖數量遠勝於前者,根據記載,英國人一半的菜餚裡都放糖)140頁 歐洲的美食文化隨着文藝復興而復活。在16世纪中葉的義大利，往往為高階级人士凖備極大量昂貴的食物。英國16及17世紀初在飲食和娯樂上的花費也把國家給吃窮了134頁 飲食與愛情 : 東方與西方的文化史
博主分析: 1704 西班牙直布羅陀Gibraltar即淪為英國殖民地至今, 反映出兩國關係之密切, 比 1707 蘇格蘭聯盟英格蘭更早。
西西里也許是喜好美食的義大利最講究美食的省份,亦曾是整個義大利半島的美食之源,曾被穆斯林和當時统治英國的諾曼地人统治過，與其他義大利人不同,西西里人對甜點的態度積極熱情,為數不少的甜食是薩拉森穆斯林佔領時期的遺產 ...要把義大利的甜點講完必須出一本專書才成 330 - 332頁 甜點的歷史 = La tres belle et tres exquise histoire des gateaux et des friandises / 瑪格洛娜.圖桑-撒瑪(Maguelonne Toussaint-Samat)著 ; 譚鍾瑜譯 台北市 博雅書屋有限公司 2011
科西嘉人素来是法國復活節糕點的冠軍 268頁 甜點的歷史
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Llibre de Sent Soví 聖救主之書 (侍奉英國國王的加泰隆尼亞廚師寫的中世紀歐洲食譜 博主註二)
The Llibre de Sent Soví (1324) is a réceptaire the medieval kitchen written in language Catalan by an anonymous author.There are two original copies manuscripts, which are kept at the University of Valencia ( manuscript n o 216 of the general library and history of the University of Valencia ) and the University Library in Barcelona . It was published for the first time in1952 by the General and scholar Lluís Faraudo Saint-Germain 2 , which published many other medieval texts. Others commented editions were performed thereafter. This text is a fundamental historical source for research on the history of food in Europe medieval , and in particular on the origins of Catalan cuisine . Source: Wikipedia
博主註二：修道院讓西元五百年以降遭蠻族侵害的西方文明得以倖存 147頁 甜點的歷史
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以下摘自: Felipe Fernandez-Armesto, Near a thousand tables : a history of food, New York, The Free Press, 2004
Indeed, courtly eating styles in the West have always been imitated from other cultures. In classical antiquity, upper-class foodways were denounced by Horace as “Persian” and by a Greek proverb as “Sicilian.” When what Gibbon called “the triumph of barbarism and religion” interrupted the continuity of Western civilization, memories of Greek and Roman cuisine grew dim. Western courts looked to Islam for culinary inspiration. This is odd, on the face of it, Christendom and Islam were rival civilizations, formally at war, locked in mutual hatred. Crusading propaganda depicted Muslims as demons. In Islam, Christians were seen as vice personified. Yet at a high level of culture the world of Islam commanded admiration and imitation. In the tenth century, when Gerbert of Aurillac - an emperor’s tutor and a future pope - wanted to learn mathematics, he went to Muslim Spain. The same route was followed by would-be practitioners of magic, seekers of the latest medical wisdom and collectors of ancient texts. Thanks to scholars working in Syriac and Arabic since the fall of the Roman Empire, a formidable corpus of manuscripts unknown in the West, including fundamental texts of Aristotle and Ptolemy, was preserved in libraries in lands under Muslim rule. As general Islamic superiority in science and medicine was then beyond cavil吹毛求疵,so, too, the specific advantage in what might be classed as “food sciences,” such as agriculture and practical gardening. For cooking is a kind of alchemy, which transmutes base ingredients into luxuries. And the medicine of the period was, in great measure, a science of diet. Specific prophylactics預防療法 were few but nourishment was known to conduce to health; the distinction between medicine and good food was inexact and the medicinal properties of foodstuffs were diligently monitored, recorded and reflected in kitchen practice. Science, magic and cookery blended into one another with no formally distinguished limits. Frederick II...Peter the Cruel of Castile...These royal Islamophiles 向往穆師林文化者were extreme but not altogether unrepresentative cases of elite values in high - medieval Christendom; there was a strong tendency to cannibalize 拆取 Muslim wisdom and defer 推遲或服從 to Muslim taste (博主註三). The culinary arts of Muslim courts became the fodder (dried hay or feed, for cattle) of Western recipe books when these began to appear on a significant scale in the thirteenth century.The West absorbed influences in three main areas: the aesthetics of the table, an accent on certain traditional exotic ingredients and a bias toward rich, sweet flavors. The aesthetics of food in Muslin courts resembled the aesthetics of the sacred arts in the West - a bias toward goldsmithy and jewelwork, which it was the aim of the best cooks to echo. They used saffron for gilding 鍍金, sugar like diamonds and meat sliced alternately in white and dark “like gold and silver coin,” according to the tenth-century text known as The Baghdad Cook. They made dishes to imitate carnelians 紅玉髓 and pearls. Just as sacred spaces and altars were heavily censed in Christendom, so royal banqueting halls and tables in Islam were perfumed with heavy aromas. Sweet flavors and scented ingredients were the most esteemed. Milk of almonds, ground almonds, rose water and extracts of other perfumed flowers, sugar and all the spices of the East - to which the Islamic world had privileged access by comparison with Christendom - became essential ingredients. ...Dishes prominent in late-medieval Western cookery books regularly betray Muslim influence by these unmistakable signs, or by the inclusion of telltale ingredients, such as pomegranate seeds, raisin paste or sumac漆樹 berries sweetened with almonds. p.119-121 Felipe Fernandez-Armesto, Near a thousandtables : a history of food, New York, The Free Press, 2004 中譯本: 食物的歷史 = Food : a history / [美]菲利普.費爾南德斯.阿莫斯圖著 ; 何舒平譯,北京 中信 2005
博主註三: 這就是Norman Daniel 之 cultural filter, 指技術上學習模彷是首要任務,文化分歧則放第二位,慢慢考慮如何處理, 可以是推遲, 可以是服從
Daniel, Norman, Cultural Barrier, 文化屏障 / 諾曼。丹尼爾著 ; 王奮宇 ... [等]譯,杭州 : 浙江人民, 1992
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The aristocracy of Europe despised the use of vegetables and ate a mainly meat diet. Consequently, they suffered widely from gout 痛風. The arrival of sweets, jams and preserves created another problem: constipation 便秘, through neglect of the recommendations of Muslim physicians. Thus, we learn from the chronicles of the Pope in Avignon in the 14th century, that boats from Beirut brought jams, preserves, rice and special flour for cake-making, plus compensatory 補充的 laxatives!瀉藥 Source: http://muslimheritage.com/article/influence-islamic-culinary-art-europe
1585年大批可可豆從 Veracruz 運到西班牙，儘管價格高昂，卻销售得非常之快。從英格蘭開始，巧克力風潮在整個十八世紀遍及全歐，但德國仍長期将之視為藥品 90頁 （普鲁士對於安地列斯群岛的蔗糖和奴隸販賣没有任何的興趣 73頁） 甜點的歷史 = La tres belle et tres exquise histoire des gateaux et des friandises / 瑪格洛娜.圖桑-撒瑪(Maguelonne Toussaint-Samat)著 ; 譚鍾瑜譯 台北市 博雅書屋有限公司 2011
哈布斯堡大公1581年引進安達鲁西亞骏馬给南奥地利Styrie,其後皇帝查爾斯四世 1730 年創立维也納西班牙馬術學校 302頁 甜點的歷史 (The Royal Andalusian School of Equestrian Art is a riding school comparable to the Spanish Riding School in Vienna, Austria. Source: Wikipedia)
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布羅代爾提出一個更廣泛的主張,即在十五世纪以前,歐洲沒有複雜的烹飪法.確實,他把精緻的烹飪法局限在五世紀的中國人以及十一,十二世紀的回教徒,在西方只局限於義大利人的成就,十六世紀以降,法國延續了此傳统(230頁), 而法國菜餚是建立在牢固的義大利基礎上 (284頁,烹飪,菜餚與階級(Cooking, cuisine and class : a study in comparative sociology / 傑克.古迪(Jack Goody)著; 王榮欣, 沈南山譯. 2012 廣場出版)
参考: Adamson, Melitta Weiss, ed. (2002) Regional Cuisines of Medieval Europe: A Book of Essays, Chapter 4: Medieval Britain, Routledge; Reprint edition (June 4, 2012)
Spencer, Colin, British food : an extraordinary thousand years of history , London : Grub Street, 2002.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Medieval_cuisine
http://muslimheritage.com/article/influence-islamic-culinary-art-europe
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目前此研究范圍正由英國270萬穆斯林,法國470萬穆斯林不断完善及集腋成裘,請多收集網上資料.
網上閱讀: 梁文道之發現英國 未提及英國太多阿拉伯大厨 (2016-04-04 10:39:54)
多北非摩爾人,幾内亞黑人任英國家僕(掌厨)情况
African Black History in Elizabethan England
One reason why the black populations of London are difficult to establish is lack of public record. With no tax on the import of slaves, such as operated in other European countries, and anyway a government monopoly on the trade of Africans from Guinea as house servants, it was 1588 before attempts were made to formalise their presence. Most black servants were slaves, but some were freed men, the majority from Guinea, but a few Moors from north Africa, so Ungere's researches show. It was the Moors that gave rise to anxiety, perhaps because many had strong ties with Spain, with which Elizabeth was at war, but also because Moors were Muslims. In what inventories of servants remain from grand households of the tie (implies a royal kinship tie), no discrimination is made between servants by colour, except where they are pictorially represented. Queen Elizabeth I may have instigated the change in that.
伊利沙白一世對英國太多北非摩爾人任家僕(掌厨)發驅逐令
In 1596, Queen Elizabeth issued an "open letter" to the Lord Mayor of London London, announcing that "there are of late divers blackmoores London,anouncing that "that are of late divers blackmoores,brought into this realme, of which kinde of people there are allready here to manie," and ordering that they be deported from the country, documents in the National Archive show. At the time the letter had little effect, but Elizabeth's skilled use of rhetoric may be considered to have stirred a sense of racist differentiation and to have begun the development of a vocabulary of discrimination. One week later, she reiterated her "good pleasure to have those kinde of people sent out of the lande" and commissioned the merchant Casper van Senden to "take up" certain "blackamoores here in this realme and to transport them into Spaine and Portugall." Finally, in 1601, she complained again about the "great numbers of Negars and Blackamoors which (as she is informed) are crept into this realm," defamed them as "infidels, having no understanding of Christ or his Gospel," and again authorized their deportation.
以上摘自:
http://www.lipstickalley.com/showthread.php/447282-Elizabeth-I-Motives-for-Expulsion-of-Blackamoors-from-London?p=11321129
参考：http://www.nationalarchives.gov.uk/pathways/blackhistory/early_times/settlers.htm
梁文道：英國到底出了甚麼問題（發現英國之一） - 梁文道文集 www.commentshk.com/2012/08/blog-post_6825.html
梁文道：失落了的英國（發現英國之二） - 梁文道文集 www.commentshk.com/2012/08/blog-post_7067.html
African Black History in Elizabethan England
One reason why the black populations of London are difficult to establish is lack of public record. With no tax on the import of slaves, such as operated in other European countries, and anyway a government monopoly on the trade of Africans from Guinea as house servants, it was 1588 before attempts were made to formalise their presence. Most black servants were slaves, but some were freed men, the majority from Guinea, but a few Moors from north Africa, so Ungere's researches show. It was the Moors that gave rise to anxiety, perhaps because many had strong ties with Spain, with which Elizabeth was at war, but also because Moors were Muslims. In what inventories of servants remain from grand households of the tie (implies a royal kinship tie), no discrimination is made between servants by colour, except where they are pictorially represented. Queen Elizabeth I may have instigated the change in that.
伊利沙白一世對英國太多北非摩爾人任家僕(掌厨)發驅逐令
In 1596, Queen Elizabeth issued an "open letter" to the Lord Mayor of London London, announcing that "there are of late divers blackmoores London,anouncing that "that are of late divers blackmoores,brought into this realme, of which kinde of people there are allready here to manie," and ordering that they be deported from the country, documents in the National Archive show. At the time the letter had little effect, but Elizabeth's skilled use of rhetoric may be considered to have stirred a sense of racist differentiation and to have begun the development of a vocabulary of discrimination. One week later, she reiterated her "good pleasure to have those kinde of people sent out of the lande" and commissioned the merchant Casper van Senden to "take up" certain "blackamoores here in this realme and to transport them into Spaine and Portugall." Finally, in 1601, she complained again about the "great numbers of Negars and Blackamoors which (as she is informed) are crept into this realm," defamed them as "infidels, having no understanding of Christ or his Gospel," and again authorized their deportation.
以上摘自:
http://www.lipstickalley.com/showthread.php/447282-Elizabeth-I-Motives-for-Expulsion-of-Blackamoors-from-London?p=11321129
参考：http://www.nationalarchives.gov.uk/pathways/blackhistory/early_times/settlers.htm
梁文道：英國到底出了甚麼問題（發現英國之一） - 梁文道文集 www.commentshk.com/2012/08/blog-post_6825.html
梁文道：失落了的英國（發現英國之二） - 梁文道文集 www.commentshk.com/2012/08/blog-post_7067.html
Goody指英國飲食直接從中世紀的野蠻進入工業時代的頹敗是什麼意思? (2016-04-03 21:27:34)
現代的普拉蒂納 (Bartolomeo Platina,
1421-1481)聲稱,英國飲食直接從中世紀的野蠻進入工業時代的頹敗. (博主的註一)
我固然能理解這些普遍的情感,但正如我們看到的那樣,中世紀的野蠻意味着烹調的分化,如果不是分化成富麗堂皇的諸如法國菜餚那般精緻的菜餚(法國菜餚建立在牢固的義大利基礎上),那麼也至少分化為包含食物供應,製作,烹飪,上菜在內的體系,這些體系把高級菜餚與低級菜餚清晰地區分開.工業時代的頹敗,不論它對高級菜餚的影響如何(雲雀的舌頭不能指望成為大衆菜餚的原料,罐装食物也並非總是佳餚的最好成份),它在數量,貭量和品種上已大為改善了西方世界城市勞動者們的飲食(而且通常也改善了菜餚).它對世界其他地方也產生了重大影響,最初是對生產過程,一些地方變得適合大規模供應那些原料,更為晚近的影響是對消費本身,因為工業菜餚和工業化農業的產物,現在是第三世界食物供應的關鍵要素
284頁, 烹飪,菜餚與階級(Cooking, cuisine and
class : a study in comparative sociology / 傑克.古迪(Jack Goody, died
on 16 July 2015, aged 95)著; 王榮欣, 沈南山譯. 2012
廣場出版
博主的註一 指英國未有受惠於文藝復興運動Renaissance對飲食的影響,16世纪之後樹斫光了迫着要燒煤,從此只能焗‘派’pie
吃直到今天.
所有蒸氣机和烹調炉具均須嚴格避開煤灰煤煙，所以只有間接加熱的烹飪手段(焗bake和煨燉stew,明顯與直接用火不同)。麵包一次做夠一至二星期，硬了在湯，或酒内泡輭吃
但英國工業革命比徳法提前了100年,
農業讓路予工業,成為出口為主的世界工厰 export or
die (動畫 http://www.britishpathe.com/video/export-or-die), 今天英國的美食素材需全數進口.
法國則利用本身農業的基礎去完善各種菜餚和高級料理 haute
cuisine.
在中世紀末,拜占庭帝國遭土耳其人侵擾(1453年東羅馬帝國帝國滅亡),學者及藝術家紛紛逃到義大利, 開始了著名的文藝復興運動,遍及全歐. 此時,意大利飮食模式和烹調之法趨向精緻及多元化,菜式繁多,包括烤肉,糕點,沙律,蜜餞及以杏仁類為主的甜品,而蔗糖亦漸漸取代了蜂蜜 9頁 王漢明 意大利菜
Italian cooking 香港
萬里機構.飲食天地出版社 2002
博主分析：義大利1861年才立國，没有一種以階級為基礎的文化，故無高級料理haute
cuisine的發展（J.Goody觀點），但義大利糕點是世界最棒的甜點(而且數量太多只能另出一本專書），義大利媽媽的地方菜式是無人能出其右 329頁甜點的歷史
= La
tres belle et tres
exquise
histoire des gateaux et des friandises 瑪格洛娜.圖桑-撒瑪(Maguelonne
Toussaint-Samat)著 ; 譚鍾瑜譯 台北市 博雅書屋有限公司 2011
義大利的普拉提納 Platina 在1475年出版的正當的享樂 De
honesta voluptate
一書中宣告以橄欖,續隨子,鯷魚等(羅馬帝國時代)為主的鹹酸口味再度盛行,和中世紀盛期所偏好的甜味,金色和香氣大相逕庭(金香甜這三種特色都和阿拉伯世界肉慾,奢華的飲食文化脱不了關係).按照佛蘭徳林
Jean-Louis Flandrin (1931 - 2001)
的説法, 這種由義大利普拉提納率先提出的用奶油butter來製作醤汁和烹飪,
代表飮食文化脱離中世紀烹飪的平民傳統135頁飲食與愛情 : 東方與西方的文化史 =
Food and love : a cultural history of East and West / 傑克.顧迪(Jack
Goody)著 ; 楊惠君譯. 台北 聯經, 2004
法式烹飪的新風格造成了幾種現象.
首先,甜味和金色幾乎去除殆盡. 其次,調製出各式各様的醬汁(含奶油).
由於印刷術已經發明,可以大量印製食譜,把知識傳遞給日漸増加的布爾喬亞bourgeoisie 階級,到了十七世紀下半葉,法國流通的食譜已經大量増加. 不只法國人可以獲得這種知識。義大利文版的法國廚師1651
Le Cuisinier
francais和其他幾本談烹飪的法文作品也在1680年出版。先前品味的主導者是文藝復興的原郷義大利,現在則輪到法國當道
137頁飲食與愛情 :
東方與西方的文化史
這種新烹飪最重要的影響在於摒棄摩爾式Moorish食物的異國風情,回頭應用較熟悉的西方食材,這使得西方社會剛剛崛起的中産階級比以往更容易享用到王公貴族的菜色,高級飲食haute
cuisine的資産階級化bourgeoisie 於焉展開.十七世紀是關鍵時代,貴族食譜比以前更廣泛流傳,擴散點則在法國 192頁,食物的歷史: 透視人類的飲食與文明
= Food : a history / 菲立普.費南德茲-阿梅斯托著;
韓良憶譯, 新店
左岸文化, 2005
英國自十七世紀下半葉開始在文化上對法國的依賴,在飮食
的領域上特別明顯,但在比較廣泛的女性文化方面,包括兩性關係在内,法國對英國的影響也是不可磨滅的 131頁 飲食與愛情 東方與西方的文化史: =
Food and love :
a cultural history
of
East and
West / 傑克.顧迪(Jack Goody)著 ; 楊惠君譯. 台北 聯經, 2004
英國對法國菜的重視是無與倫比的，法國之所以能在歐洲以外的世界取得文化優勢，有一部份是拜英美兩國所賜137頁 不過儘管法國菜的地位祟高,英國的廚師一直是用自己的方式來解讀法文食譜
138頁 飲食與愛情 東方與西方的文化史
英王復辟1660年以後的時期,
對一種英國(例如盎格魯-薩克遜)菜餚的尋找掲示了對歐洲大陸烹飪影響模棱兩可的態度.歐洲大陸這個詞本身讓人們想起這個被水圍繞的英倫島嶼族群相比較於其隣國法國的放縱和過度,英國是過著苦行潔淨的生活. 英國當地的菜餚應該是清晰而直接的. 反而値得懷疑的是外國人(指法國)在菜餚和禮儀上的精緻,沃納
Warner 在他的古代烹飪 1791
Antiquitates
Culinariae 一書中表達了這種情感:
儘管我們的英國同胞對法國烹飪存在偏見.
但英國掩蓋肉味的模式(可能除了年份中最熱季節的最熱時期)是荒謬的.
在英國這裏,是糟蹋好肉的藝術...在法國南部...是讓壞肉變得可以食用的藝術
248頁 烹飪,菜餚與階級(Cooking,
cuisine and class
: a study in comparative sociology / 傑克.古迪(Jack Goody,
died
on
16 July 2015, aged 95)著; 王榮欣, 沈南山譯. 2012 廣場出版世界工厰的英國人宣稱自己是民主的先驅和議會之母,但法國在烹調,時尚,香水,花語,情人情話等國際布爾喬亞方面都是首屈一指的,雖然這個霸權正受到挑戰153頁飲食與愛情:
英國人憑着自由的憲法和商業經濟而認為高人一等，一而再，再而三地宣稱英國在文化上是獨立而不受法國影響的，但不論是床第之歡或是美食之楽，英吉利海峡的另一端（法國）都有趣多了146頁，155頁飲食與愛情:
東方與西方的文化史
* one who lives well， eats well 享樂主義者
** “他是一個塔列朗”的詞句，是用來形容偉大的機智且有手段的政治家。 拿破侖本人認為塔列朗 (1754 - 1838) 是個十分能幹的外交官。「塔列朗式」已經成為一種玩世不恭、狡猾的外交態度之代名詞 (Source: Wikipedia: Charles Maurice de Talleyrand-Périgord, 法國廚師之王，王之廚師卡漢姆的僱主)
*** 恭親王評‘Take away your opium, and your missionaries, and you will be welcome’ (Chinese Prince Kung to Sir Rutherford Alcock 阿禮國, British Minister in Beijing)
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歐洲大部份地區降雨頻繁並不需要複雜的水資源管理技術. 中世紀阿尔卑斯山脉以北最大的城市倫敦只有 3.5萬人，而西班牙的摩尓人在科尔多瓦通过灌溉农业养育了上百萬人口 155頁, 全球水危機 : 節約用水從我做起 = When the rivers run dry / [英]弗雷德.皮爾斯著 ; 張新明譯.北京智識產權出版社 2010 今日倫敦市民喝的泰晤士河水其實已完成多次(傳說是7至10次, 註一)飲用和排放的循環了195頁. 總结經過大殖民時代的經驗,發展中國家(印度,非洲)傳統集雨智慧和技術比歐洲水利文明修建的大型調水工程更有效,中東地區人仕更無視西方工程規範,沿用着自己過去收集雨水的方法 223頁
註一 : http://www.standard.co.uk/news/london/drinking-treated-sewage-could-be-the-answer-to-the-capitals-water-shortage-says-thames-water-8608672.html
1316年不列顛島南部的温徹斯特Winchester, 雖然比鄰近地區更適合進行農業,收穫倍率卻只有兩倍 100頁, ...人口增加太快,農業生產力無法應付.英格蘭在西元1000 年的耕地面積(包含穀物與其他作物)為340萬公頃,這些農地生產的作物尚可供應250萬人,但過了300年後,就必須用460萬公頃的農地養活500萬人 174頁, 田家康 氣候文明史 : 改變世界的攻防八萬年 ,台北市 臉譜出版, 2012
Cooking may be an art where food is plentiful, when shortages are the currency of everyday life, filling the stomach is the only art p.279. Lent 大齋節 (the forty-day fast齋戒 that precedes Easter) was the most profitable time for the fish-salting merchants, but Fridays throughout the year were almost as good. Until as late as the mid-sixteenth century it remained legally possible for an Englishman to be hanged for eating meat on a Friday. p.176. It was one of the greatest challanges to the cook's ingenuity 心靈手巧 during periods when the church took on firm stand on fasting. Then meat, eggs and dairy product were forbidden on Wednesdays, Fridays, Saturdays and the whole of Lent - half the days of the year p.184 Tannahill,
Reay,
Food in History, New York:
Three Rivers Press,1988
博主分析: 1550年代糧食稀少，政教合一每年强迫全民守齋200天，星期五破齋戒食肉者問吊. 守齋只能吃鹹魚salt, 煙燻鱼smoke, 魚乾 dry (SSD). 故不能說中國是農耕文明, 歐洲是畜牧文明. 歐洲應該是漁農牧文明, 北歐是漁菐文明.
倫敦現在被譽為烹飪文化的中心,憑藉的幾乎完全從外國進ロ的食材.打造美食王國的功臣是食物的全球化,而非本土的發明 140頁, 飲食與愛情:
東方與西方的文化史 = Food and love : a cultural history of East and West
/傑克.顧迪(Jack Goody)著 ; 楊惠君譯. 台北 聯經, 2004
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清教徒统治和塑造英国的未来：
克伦威尔 Oliver
Cromwell (1599–1658)
在继承叔父遗产之前，他的生活都和普通农民一样。当时宗教改革运动正盛，克伦威尔也受此影响，成为了清教徒。他推行了积极有效的内外政策，在相當程度上塑造了英国的未来。但是，在他死后，联邦迅速灭亡，斯图亚特王朝实现复辟。他是一个虔诚的独立清教徒，深信上帝指引他走向胜利。雖然他从未表明自己的宗教立场，但他强烈赞成容忍各种新教教派。轉載自wikipedia 克伦威尔對来自中國的茶葉課以重税 31頁
甜點的歷史 = La tres belle et tres exquise histoire des gateaux et des
friandises 瑪格洛娜.圖桑-撒瑪(Maguelonne Toussaint-Samat)著 ; 譚鍾瑜譯 台北市
博雅書屋有限公司 2011
1649-1660年英吉利共和國成立以後就禁止奢華的生活,克倫威爾之妻子伊莉莎白Elizabeth的食譜就是一個例子.英國經歷了清教徒革命,簡樸的行為自然必須搭配簡單的烹飪
141頁 飲食與愛情
: 東方與西方的文化史 = Food and love : a cultural history of East and
West / 傑克.顧迪(Jack Goody)著 ; 楊惠君譯. 台北 聯經,
2004
基於政治和地理上的因素，法國仍然是奢侈產品最重要的来源和典範。1660年隨着強大君主政體的復辟對英國造成了深遠的影響.
在接下來的幾百年當中,
雙雙衝擊了中産階級(博主指中世紀歐洲三類人：
貴族,教士,平民之外的新興資産階級bourgeoisie布爾喬亞) (註二)
和宮廷,除了烹飪之外,這種影響更遍及所有的女性活動,特別是時尚,還有女性對男性的関係
（博主指如尊重女權，英國最偉大的君主都是女性）,
以及男性對女性的関係(博主指例子如英國由男人主廚).
在女性文化的許多領域當中(如烹飪,服飾),法國―直居於領導性的地位,
不只在英國如此,法國在世界其他地區亦復如是
159頁,飲食與愛情: 東方與西方的文化史
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布爾喬亞素來厭惡浪費,小商人亦如此.然而,中世紀法令卻禁止食品業者將當日賣剩的東西留到翌日再度販售,必須在打烊時於門前以火銷毀.當這些法令到最後變為一紙空文時,烤肉商與糕餅師皆如釋重負.
自十七世紀以來,英吉利海峽的英國那邊出現了這種既經濟又美味的點心.在英女王的臣民中,蘇格蘭人尤其喜愛這種甜點,他們甚至聲稱發明了這道名稱古怪,叫做whim-wham奇裝異服；奇想的美食.
Whim-wham後來變成公認名聲最顯赫的英國甜點乳脂鬆糕 trifle. 這些在模中擠得滿滿的餡料不用經過烹調,便趁極清涼時食用.
若不是使用了回收的餅乾,這道布丁的作法其實並非那麼經濟,就像英格蘭人自十五世紀就極喜愛的煎麵包 panperdy,
那時代所有的家政書籍都會提到這道菜.
十八世紀末,這種蛋糕出現在法國,名稱夾雜著英文詞語.法國的環境很快將之精緻化,並將蛋糕烤上半小時,食時淋上英式醬汁
178頁 甜點的歷史 = La tres belle et tres
exquise histoire des gateaux et des friandises
瑪格洛娜.圖桑-撒瑪(Maguelonne Toussaint-Samat)著 ; 譚鍾瑜譯 台北市 博雅書屋有限公司
2011
但乳脂鬆糕實際上不過是道拼湊起來的甜點，在製作上不需要什麼特別才能或特殊的甜點天分。只要一點點巧思，把食橱或冰箱裡的材料放進去就行了 328頁 甜點的歷史
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英國最有名的甜點,約翰牛John Bull
的美食象徵,自然非布丁莫屬.布丁不能稱作糕餅,因為它不含麵團,正確地說是不使用派皮,因此是與法國人等拉丁語系民族無緣的食物(怎麽可能在一年前就開始做聖誕節吃的東西呢)?
1675年開始,布丁的食譜呈現多樣化,使用了各類穀物:
米(加入蘋果與檸檬的維多利亞布丁);
弄碎的麵包心(加入大量果乾或糖漬水果的蘇格蘭布丁);
麵粉(約克雪Yorkshire布丁);
麵包粉(聖誕節布丁,在一年前製作也可以
p.327）;
餅乾或海綿蛋糕(源自維多利亚時代的內閣布丁或公爵夫人布丁);
腎臟脂肪(李子布丁);
牛髓(蘇格蘭布丁);
烘烤牛肉取下的油脂(加入約克雪布丁) 321頁 - 324頁 甜點的歷史 = La tres belle et tres exquise histoire des gateaux et des friandises / 瑪格洛娜.圖桑-撒瑪(Maguelonne Toussaint-Samat)著 ; 譚鍾瑜譯 台北市 博雅書屋有限公司 2011
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1816年法國廚師之王，王之廚師卡漢姆前往威爾斯親王處服務2年。但他發現,即使最棒的法國菜餚,都無法動摇数百年来淡而無味的英國食物.
他寫下:
英國烹飪的精華是烤牛肉;羊肉和羔羊;各種肉類在鹽水中烹调,就像煮魚和烫青菜的方式一樣...水果蜜餞,各種布丁,花椰菜煮雞與火雞,醃牛肉,鄉村火腿,以及一些類似的蔬菜燉肉-這就是英國烹飪的總和.
Careme was depressed by the climate and the attitude of his fellow
cooks, who resented the attention paid to this foreign
interloper侵入. “The essentials of English cooking,” he wrote, “are
the roasts of beef, mutton, and lamb; the various meats cooked in
salt water, in the manner of fish and vegetables...fruit preserves,
puddings of all kinds, chicken and turkey with cauliflower, salt
beef, country ham, and several similar ragouts 醃肉- that is the sum
of English cooking.” A more accurate description of old-fashioned
English fare
伙食 could
hardly be penned today. p.144 Willan, Anne (1938),
Great cooks and their recipes : from Taillevent to Escoffier,
1992,
卡漢姆還寫道：他們的料理不但難以下嚥還十分辛辣，威爾斯親王每次痛風發作，都得痛苦好幾天，好幾晚
p.32
20位顛覆飲食潮流的革命家 : 看這些人如何改變我們的味蕾與經典食譜 =
Food gurus : 20 people who changed
the way we eat and think about food / 史帝芬.韋安仕(Stephen Vines)著 ;
方淑惠譯 台北市 : 三采文化出版事業有限公司, 2014
直至非常晩近,西歐都依照阿拉伯飲食的規則,而它們是從希臘醫生那裏継承來的
225頁, 烹飪,菜餚與階級(Cooking, cuisine and
class : a study in comparative sociology / 傑克.古迪(Jack Goody, died
on 16 July 2015, aged 95)著 ; 王榮欣, 沈南山譯. 2012
廣場出版
The aristocracy of Europe despised the use of vegetables and
ate a mainly meat diet. Consequently, they suffered widely from
gout痛風. The arrival of sweets, jams and preserves created another
problem: constipation便秘, through neglect of the recommendations of
Muslim physicians. Thus, we learn from the chronicles of the Pope
in Avignon in the 14th century, that boats from Beirut brought
jams, preserves, rice and special flour for cake-making, plus
compensatory 補充的laxatives!瀉藥
Source:
http://muslimheritage.com/article/influence-islamic-culinary-art-europe
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註二: 什麼是中産階級 (博主指中世紀貴族,教士,平民之外的新興資産階級)布爾喬亞bourgeoisie
参考：
Lancelot de Casteau (16th century - 1613) Ouverture de cuisine 廚藝入門，比利時列日(the first cookbook to go beyond medieval recipes and to codify haute cuisine首次有系統的編纂資産階級高级料理)
馬夏洛 Massialot (1660 — 1733)王室與布爾喬亞的廚師 Nouveau cuisinier royal et bourgeois 1691
墨農
Menon pseudonym 1746
布爾喬亞女廚師 La Cuisinière
bourgeoise
搜索圖片：
布爾喬亞女顧客的喜愛：英式水果蛋糕
plum cake 230頁 甜點的歷史 = La tres belle et tres exquise histoire des gateaux et des friandises / 瑪格洛娜.圖桑-撒瑪(Maguelonne Toussaint-Samat)著 ; 譚鍾瑜譯 台北市 博雅書屋有限公司 2011
20世纪布爾喬亞家庭的绝佳甜點
: 摩卡咖啡蛋糕 caffe Mocka gateau 228頁 甜點的歷史
布爾喬亞傳统庸俗風格的甜點高塔(不能完全食用的堆疊型蛋糕)
: pieces montees 卡漢姆
Marie-Antoine Careme
1784-1833 215，235，275頁 甜點的歷史
什麼是中産階級: 以下轉載自https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Middle_class
It was once defined by exception as an intermediate social class
between the
nobility
and the
peasantry
of Europe.
While the nobility owned the countryside, and the peasantry worked
the countryside, a new
bourgeoisie
(literally "town-dwellers") arose around mercantile functions in
the city. In France, the middle classes helped drive the
French Revolution.
Another definition equated the middle class to the original meaning
of capitalist:
someone with so much
capital
that they could rival nobles. In fact, to be a capital-owning
millionaire was the essential criterion of the middle class in
the
industrial revolution.
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