2017年6月12日 星期一

中國嚴禁旅客攜帶阿拉伯茶入境

卡塔葉卡特草(khat/qat)或恰特草(chat,分布在熱帶非洲衣索比亞阿拉伯半島以及中國大陸海南廣西等地。東非常青灌木,葉含興奮物質卡西酮,可嚼碎食用,目前已由人工引種栽培。分布在熱帶非洲衣索比亞阿拉伯半島以及中國大陸海南廣西等地。Source:  https://zh.wikipedia.org/wiki/巧茶

Why the Herbal Stimulant 'Khat' Was Banned


By Marc Lallanilla, Live Science Contributor | July 3, 2013  https://www.livescience.com/37948-what-is-khat-cathinone.html

The
British government has decided to ban the import and use of khat, after years of
turning a blind eye to the herbal stimulant.

As
recently as January 2013, the U.K. Advisory Council on the Misuse of Drugs had
declared there is "insufficient evidence" that khat causes any serious health
effects, the
BBC reports.

The
decision, announced today (July 3), has many outside the khat-using community
wondering what exactly khat is, and why its use was allowed in the U.K. and
elsewhere for so long. [
Trippy
Tales: The History of 8 Hallucinogens
]

What
is khat?

Khat
is a flowering evergreen shrub native to East Africa and the Arabian Peninsula.
The plant (
Catha
edulis
)
contains two alkaloids, cathinone and cathine, which act as
stimulants.

Users
simply chew the green khat leaves, keeping a ball of partially chewed leaves
against the inside of their cheek (not unlike chewing tobacco).

The
dried leaves can also be used in this way, though they have less potency. Some
khat users also smoke the drug, make it into tea or sprinkle it on
food.

An
ancient tradition

Use
of khat has been a tradition for centuries throughout Somalia, Yemen and
Ethiopia, where khat cafes ("mafrishes") are often found. Khat leaves are chewed
by students before exams, in the morning before work or at social gatherings,
according to the
Los
Angeles Times
.

The
effects of khat (also known as qat, qaad, Arabian tea, kat and chat) are similar
to those of other amphetamines, according to authorities like the Drug
Enforcement Administration. Khat users report feelings of well-being, mental
alertness, excitement and euphoria.

Though
khat is generally described as a mild stimulant, there is consistent evidence of
overuse and addiction. Long-term use or abuse has been linked to "insomnia,
anorexia, gastric disorders, depression, liver damage" and heart attack,
according to a 2009 study from the Austrian medical journal Wiener klinische
Wochenschrift. [
The
9 Oddest Medical Case Reports
]

"Manic
and delusional behavior, violence, suicidal depression, hallucinations, paranoia
and khat-induced psychosis have also been reported," the study authors
wrote.

Immigrants
spread khat use

As
immigrants from East Africa and the Middle East have settled in communities
throughout Europe and North America, they have brought their tradition of khat
with them, causing some friction between khat users and law enforcement
officials.

In
Canada, the United States and most of Europe, khat is a controlled substance,
often placed in the same category as
cocaine.
Traditional users of khat, however, balk at that association.

"It
is a very touchy subject. Some people see it like a drug; some people see it
like coffee," Abdulaziz Kamus, president of the African Resource Center in
Washington, D.C., told the Times. "You have to understand our background and
understand the significance of it in our community."

"It
is definitely not like coffee," Garrison Courtney, spokesman for the Drug
Enforcement Administration, told the Times. "It is the same drug used by young
kids who go out and shoot people in Africa, Iraq and Afghanistan. It is
something that gives you a heightened sense of invincibility."

Indeed,
many experts believe the drug is linked to violence in Somalia. A 2007 study
from PLOS Medicine found that more than 36 percent of Somali combatants had used
khat during the prior week — and khat use was believed to be even higher than
that in some regions of the war-torn country, the study authors
noted.

Is
khat funding terrorism?

In
Western Europe, there are concerns that the sale of khat is used to fund
terrorism. Last year, the
Huffington
Post UK
reported
that every aspect of khat, from its cultivation to the mafrishes where it's sold
and chewed, supports the al-Shabaab terrorist group in Somalia.

The
U.K. ban on khat was initiated in part to prevent the country from becoming a
center for smuggling khat to other countries where the drug has long been
illegal.

"Failure
to take decisive action and change the U.K.'s legislative position on khat would
place the U.K. at a serious risk of becoming a single, regional hub for the
illegal onward trafficking," British Home Secretary Theresa May said in a
statement.



But
the U.K. ban has met with some protest. "Prohibition is the most foolish
possible response," Ian Dunt said on
Politics.co.uk.
"All the data on drug use shows that a ban does not eliminate demand, it merely
forces the product underground."

厨藝是阿拉伯婦女的專利(傳女不傳男)

 

蔡倩玟<<美食考: 歐洲飲食文化地圖>>臺北: 貓頭鷹出版,  2008

 

在阿拉伯文化裡, 厨藝只在女姓間傳承, 因此最美味的莱餚都藴藏在家庭裡(不接待外國男人的). 由祖母傳給媽媽再傳給女兒, 每家都有自己私藏的秘方, 男姓是被禁止踏入廚房的, 所以有人觀察到北非當地最好吃的菜都在家庭裡, 外面餐廳因為廚師都是男性, 這類職業在當地地位又不高, 當然不能期待會吃到什麼佳餚了. 

 

 因此, 在法國若聽到有阿拉伯移民稱讚那間北非餐廳的古斯古斯 couscous 好吃, 通常他還會特别註明那幾乎做得跟我祖母的一樣好了. 112頁

歐洲修道院賣點心糖果(葡萄牙澳門的例子)


蔡倩玟<<美食考: 歐洲飲食文化地圖>>臺北: 貓頭鷹出版,  2008

歐洲修道院裡常製作各種獨具特色的點心糖果, 有時會出售以换取收入 77頁


法國很多城市都以瑪卡宏 Macarons 為特產, 最富盛名的就是東北洛林省南錫巿 Nancy. 最初是因為當地女修道院規定非常嚴格, 禁止食用各式肉品, 修女們因而製作出不少糕點取代肉食, 而營養豐富的杏仁是常被使用的材料.77頁 


                                                                    Source: Wikipedia
1792 年,  法國大革命不久, 頒布解散宗教组織政令, Decret de Suppression des Congregations Religieuses, 當時各地都處於兵荒馬亂中, 很多宗教場所被蓄意破壞, 路上到處是流離失所的人. 77頁 

有兩名無處可去的小修女被一個好心的醫生收容, 為了報答他的善心,  便烘烤一種以前在修道院學到的杏仁餅给他享用, 藉以聊表謝意, 之後她們為了謀生而開始販賣, 想不到這種扁平形狀, 外脆内軟, 表面帶有不規則裂痕的甜餅大受喜愛, 生意蒸蒸日上, 日後甚至成為南锡 Nancy 代表性特產, 很多旅遊書裡都讚美南锡瑪卡宏為世界第一美味的杏仁甜點.77頁 

日後修女被調派到其他修道院時, 也把杏仁餅的食譜一起帶去, 雖然基本做法相同, 但或多或少還是會加入一些當地特色, 比如说形狀上的改變, 或添加一些配料如杏桃乾, 焦糖粒等  77頁 

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思考題: 今日旅遊澳門(葡萄牙殖民地 1557 - 1999)的人, 有誰會聯想到當地的杏仁餅, 葡國蛋撻這些小甜餅的出處, 竟是修道院呢? 澳門猪油糕(糖果)是不是修道院的?  不是,  它是福建甜點.  牛油糕則是中葡混血甜點.

西班牙今天仍在用豬油作酥皮哩.  他們的猪, 每天吃 7 - 8 公斤橡子, 橡子中的亞油酸, 奧米加3 等轉入猪的脂肪裡,  使到猪隻變成行走中的橄欖, 多食有益.  西班牙火腿需 6 年熟成, 在英國 10 英鎊 (约100 港元)只能買 100 克 (火腿表面脂肪壞死已割走, 其餘生食). 葡萄牙 1640 前屬於西班牙, 境內有更多的橡子餵豬, 豬肉和火腿也銷往西班牙. 

西班牙的國教是天主教, 修道院仍然按照節日需要大量生產點心糖果. 西班牙修道院賣最佳的點心糖果.  

每年有一千二百多萬英國遊客前往西班牙曬太陽渡假, 食物(點心糖果)好吃是原因之一.  這裡的豬油皮麵別處吃不到. 法國牛角酥用的是牛油 butter, 義大利的比薩 pizza 沒有酥皮, 更沒有香甜餡 (仿似印度咖喱角).  

環遊全球拍 City Bakes 片集的英國麵點大師(Paul Hollywood, 51歲, 祖先三代經營麵點)首次光臨馬德里, 學會了豬油揉麵製作酥皮, 承認畢生受用, 此後必定再次登門取經. 吃得過癮的他還向電視觀衆推介移民馬德里哩 (英國國債人均三萬鎊, 一家三口合九萬鎊一走了之.  参考  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A4t9fQAtsKY    ).


延伸閱讀:  修道院點心 / 丸山久美作 ; 邱喜麗譯, 臺北市: 積木文化, 2014
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澳門有一項葡萄牙的國吃 - 蛋撻, 它的歷史可追溯至 15 - 16 世紀. 中世紀歐洲教會權力至大, 旅客投宿只能敲修道院的門. 葡萄牙蛋撻便產生自修道院的烘焙室. 大量的鷄蛋白被修女們用作漿洗教袍了, 蛋黃便用作甜品出售. 初時葡撻以住店客人為主, 1837 年便在修道院一側開始向公眾售賣貝倫葡撻 Pasteis de Belem ( http://pasteisdebelem.pt ), 直至今天成為國吃.

澳門的葡萄牙蛋撻則是最近由英國藥劑師改良.

1989年英国人安德鲁·史斗(Andrew Stow)将葡带到澳门,改用英式奶黄馅并减少糖的用量后,随即慕名而至者众,并成为澳门著名小吃。位於路環的安德魯餅店,是葡撻的鼻祖。後來老闆夫婦離婚後,老闆娘另起爐灶創立瑪嘉烈餅店,並把葡撻的秘方和新產品開發權賣給肯德基。此舉使葡撻發揚光大,使瑪嘉烈葡撻紅遍兩岸四地 (轉載自: Wikipedia)

延伸閱讀: 葡萄牙西班牙杏仁批(不同澳門杏仁餅但可比較觀摩)  
http://www.bbc.co.uk/food/recipes/almond_tart_40368

里斯本鄰近大西洋, 渔產豐富, 與倫敦, 巴黎等豪華 deluxe 大都會不同, 它比較接近古式古香的中世紀渔港, 適合一般消費的大眾旅游. 食肆供應由炭烤沙丁整魚(不掏腸, 似摩洛哥)至大魚頭, 菜式喜用大量香料香草如芫荽 coriander (西班牙用少量香料, 不用芫荽用歐芹 parsley仍遺傳了摩爾人金香甜大紅等活潑特色. 葡萄牙則靜靜地, 謙卑地享用海鮮. 它是大西洋的饋贈). 上館子最後一道甜品是牛扒飽 prego (與澳門豬扒飽大同小異).  葡萄牙用甜番薯 sweet potato, 大蒜.  里斯本街頭仍安排了扮演中世紀摩爾戰士的黑膚色大漢造型模特.  薯蓉青湯是葡萄牙最好傳統, 叫 caldo verde,   含有馬薯, 洋葱,  西班牙香腸, 切碎了的羽衣甘藍, 非常大眾化.
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延伸閱讀: 

葡萄牙菜单:鱼、香菜及美梦成真

https://www.visitportugal.com/zh-hans/node/195107


葡萄牙人不吃烏頭鱼(鲻, grey mullet) http://blog.sina.com.cn/s/blog_b96391280102xarz.html


澳門杏仁餅   https://zh.wikipedia.org/wiki/%E6%9D%8F%E4%BB%81%E9%A5%BC