2017年4月19日 星期三

日本人善於利用魚的內臟, 蟹的內臟

在專業餐飲網頁上,  https://forums.egullet.org/topic/34432-the-inner-fish-shellfish-mollusc-is-sweetest/

來自美國 Ohio 名為 Torakris 之女從業員有觀察如下(2004年):

日本人非常善於利用動物和魚的每一個部份. 只需前往日本的超市便立刻感到日本人對魚類內臟的喜愛和利用. 大部份魚類的卵都是非常美味和值得珍惜的, 大件整個出售的魚卵包括鱈(鳘)魚, 香辣鱈(鳘)卵, 鲱魚卵; 成堆售賣的也有三文卵,
飛魚卵. 若然是胡瓜魚(輻鰭魚綱), 比目魚等其卵是連同整魚一同出售 . 特别美味魚內臟在食物館子當小菜者有鳕魚精巢, 鮟鱇魚肝, 海鳗肝, 食用辦法是用竹籤穿妥然後烤熟,
或浸入清湯内浸熟. 有的壽司上面舖滿蟹的內臟.  蟹的內臟可以加上調味漿汁, 連蟹殼整個吸食. 其他魚類如鰹魚, 烏賊是連内臟發酵用作調味品, 叫塩辛  shiokara. 秋刀魚則不用破腹整批就地烤熟(註一), 內臟是用來伴着魚的其他部份一同滋味地喫掉的 (註)。更有甚者將鱼臟整副取出磨成漿, 然後均勻塗抹在魚上烤火.

日本人樂意食用魚的頭, 眼球, 魚皮, 魚鰭, 魚骨. 

中世紀漢薩同盟鲱魚 Scania 集市哥本哈根的世界頂級餐廳 Noma 暫時
轉移前往東京三個月, 目的是學習全魚內臟宴, 這大概是東洋風壓倒西風吧.  Source:  http://www.telegraph.co.uk/foodanddrink/11560581/Fancy-some-fish-liver-Why-Brits-need-more-guts-with-their-fish.html

註一: 摩洛哥至蘇格蘭一帶烤沙丁魚是不剖腹的帶臟烤, 沒有內臟滋味會大減, 這是屢試不爽的真理. 歷史上英國法國都不剖開 red mullet 的腹. 蘇格蘭的魚是整條烹製的.
註二: 秋刀魚是日本料理中最具代表性的秋季食材之一(與代表春天的香魚相對),最常見的烹製方式是將整條魚鹽烤,搭配白飯味噌湯蘿蔔泥一同食用。
秋刀魚的魚腸有苦味,但是大多數食客並不把魚腸去除,而是用醬油檸檬汁來給鹽烤秋刀魚調味。他們認為醬油的鹹鮮味或檸檬的酸味與魚本身的苦味相結合,才是秋刀魚的最佳風味。Source: Wikipedia

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原文

The Japanese hate to waste any part of the animal and fish is no exception.

A trip to a supermarket in Japan will reveal the passion the Japanese have for the normally garbaged fish parts.

The roe or eggs from almost any fish are considered a delicacy, they are sold still in the sacks (like tarako= cod roe, mentaiko= cod roe seasoned with chile, kazunoko, herring roe, etc) or they are sold with the eggs all separated (ikura= salmon roe, tobiko= flying fish roe, etc) or they are sold still attached to the fish ( shishamo= pregnant smelt, ko-mochi karei= flounder with egg sacs still attached). Then there are other popular dishes like shirako (cod sperm sacs) and the livers of fish like the monkfish (ankimo) and eel (unagi no kimo) that is often served skewered  竹籤  and grilled or in a clear soup.


Crab innards (kani miso*) are used as sushi toppings, added to sauces and sucked straight from the shells, other fish are fermented with their innards like the popular food shiokara 塩辛, most commonly seen as squid (ika no shiokara) or bonito (katsuo no shiokara).



Some fish are grilled with the innards intact and enjoyed while eating the fish, sanma (saury pike) is normally eaten this way and sometimes the innards are removed, mashed to a paste, rubbed all over the outside of the fish and then grilled.



other parts of the fish enjoyed in Japan incluse the head (atama), eyeballs (medama),