2018年9月25日 星期二

歐洲煮食傾向於科學, 東方煮食傾向於藝術?

歐洲緯度比中國高出很多, 例如北京的相同緯度39.55N可以大約在義大利這只"靴子"的靴跟上找到, 中國的最北點原來只相當於歐洲的最低點. 

中世紀以來阿拉伯人長期嘗試在歐洲種稻米, 到現在產區也只是局限於西班牙和義大利.  歐洲氣候其實只是適宜生產小麥.  小麥粉可以做麵飽, 故歐美是以麵飽為主食.  

總括來說, 做麵飽是一種科學手段, 煮食則是一種藝術 making bread is a science, cooking is an art.  

這樣可否類推為歐洲人習慣用科學解決問題是因為他們習慣了科學做麵飽?  做麵飽是否一切發明之母?  少食麵飽的東方和缺乏科學是否必然會發生?  煮食在東方是一門藝術, 技巧大抵缺乏科學說明, 可否一律概括為只知其然而不知其所以然?  一邊是民以煮食為天, 另一邊是民以科學為天?  李約瑟可是窮了一生之功力去証明東方也有科學哩!

美食離不開奶酪, 其製作也是一種科學手段. 奶酪稍作加熱便可以入饌.  其他頂級美食如西班牙黑毛豬火腿是生食的, 其製作也是一種科學手段.  由北歐至阿姆斯特丹鯡魚(古代漢薩同盟的商品)都是生食的.  牛排, 生都是生食. 生牛肉吃得多的法國人90%身體都感染了弓形蟲, 而中國人有5-20https://baike.baidu.com/item/弓形虫 .

法國人一般認為英國人不會煮食. You are English you can't cook 搜索Rachel Khoo - The Little Paris Kitchen 視頻, 邱瑞秋  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hun_yj5u4S0   

古代鎮人口較為集中, 一般設有公共飽烘焙室, 可以吃到當天製作的軟飽. 鄉村人口分散, 便利計, 一兩個星期才烘一次故大部份時間都是吃硬麵飽,  要浸軟了才能入口.  

16世紀中葉後, 樹砍光了英國全民燒煤.  小冰河時期煤比肉貴, 一般人家一天才開一次爐(每次半小時至四十五分鐘).  早餐儘量做大份些以便足夠全天食用. 煤煙煤灰都是都是需要避免才能夠煮食的, 要麼用科學爐具去隔開煤煙煤灰 a stove with a built-in cooktop is called a range 經濟能力不足只好早上利用餘熱去煮個大份的早餐過一天.

英國國民一九六零年代曾經抗拒日本壽司和食用整隻大蝦. 據英國電視片集 (Food CIA 第十集 programme.tvb.com/foodandtravel/foodciaiv/episode/10) 食用昆蟲專家解釋, 是源於其民習慣不食帶頭帶腳之魚蝦. 

每一天有230萬英國人吃亨氏焗豆罐頭;其中有100萬人把它當晚飯, 是食焗豆的世界冠軍。他們一般家庭每星期吃十多罐, 三餐都用得上, 以西北部吃得最多.  澳大利亞是世界第二大焗豆消耗者. 



Here are some beans on toast. A cheap, nutritious, and easy-to-make meal that will not only satisfy your hunger, but also leave you able to do farts that could blow a house down at 30 feet.  Source: https://www.buzzfeed.com/alanwhite/just-wait-till-the-confusion-over-welsh-rarebit-starts



位於曼徹斯特的亨氏焗豆是歐洲最大的食品工厰, 每天完成三百多萬個焗豆罐頭.  原料來自北美, the navy bean, haricot, pearl haricot bean, boston bean,white pea bean,or pea bean, is a variety of the common bean  native to the Americas, where it was domesticated. In 2008, "Heinz Baked Beans" were renamed "Heinz Beanz", as they aren't actually 'baked' but stewed.  Heinz Baked Beans are produced by sealing raw beans and sauce in the cans, which are then placed in large pressure cookers. Source: Wikipedia.   

生豆子經20分鐘浸泡85C熱水後入罐, 噴上西紅柿汁後便封密, 然後用高温高壓蒸汽煮21分鐘.  20 年前還是聘請女工用調羹一粒一粒將雜豆從生產線挑走, 現時已採用激光分類及氣流吹走.  全自動化流水線飛快地運轉, 眼球永遠追不上速度, 百分百完全是科學的運作.

亨氏焗豆1901年開始在倫敦Fortnum & Mason 高級百貨銷售, 以出門的富人和海軍軍官為對象. 1905開始在北美向中午下班工人宣傳, 以快捷便利, 滿意, 飽為號召.


焗豆是虧本營銷的典型,即超級市場用低於成本的價格賣一種商品,以吸引顧客。波士頓歷史上享有「豆子城」(Beantown)的稱號. Source: Wikipedia/焗豆     .  學哈佛, MIT, 切記要嘗點波士頓焗豆.  You don't know beans until you come to Boston.   


參見



Bean Town Origin



                                                               Source: http://www.visitingnewengland.com/boston-baked-beans-durgin-park.html

The intent of this article is to document what popularized Boston's most famous nickname, Bean Town. There have been several other places known as Bean Town, but in popular culture, Boston has captured the title as Bean Capital of the United States.  Source: http://www.visitingnewengland.com/boston-baked-beans-durgin-park.html

Beans and brown bread were a staple in colonial New England. At Plymouth Colony in 1622, the local Native Americans baked corn bread in earthen pots, and called it mazium. When the Pilgrims sojourned in Holland before emigrating to America, they got accustomed to eating dark breads made with course grains such as rye. The Plymouth colonists planted barley, and mixed its flour with corn meal to invent brown bread. The Native Americans also baked beans before the Pilgrims arrived, using maple syrup as the sweetener instead of molasses. Thus, most likely, baked beans and the original bean pot were Indian inventions adopted by the English Colonists.

Bean Pot Sticker, 1907
The early Pilgrims and Puritans of Massachusetts also strictly observed the Sabbath, and did not work or even cook hot meals on Sundays. To circumvent this religious rule, they would bake beans on Saturdays in a bean pot, and leave them in the hot brick ovens overnight. On Sundays, the baked beans would still be hot when served. Due to the Sabbath, baked beans and brown bread eventually became a traditional Sunday meal, which lasted until the early 1900s.
Molasses is a byproduct of processing cane sugar, and is used as an ingredient in the distillation of rum. Boston became a manufacturer and exporter of rum in the late-1700s. Boston Baked Beans, or baked beans with molasses and salt pork, likely evolved into this new recipe at that time.
Related, Boston was then part of the Triangle Trade, an international trading system involving slaves, rum, fish, raw materials, and other finished goods. Slaves and molasses (or sugar) were imported into Boston from the West Indies, with the molasses used for the production of rum. Raw materials and rum from Boston were exported to Europe, with finished goods imported in return. Europe traded goods with the Slave Coast of Africa. Captured slaves were then sent to the British Sugar Colonies in the West Indies, thereby creating what resembles an upside down triangle on a map of the Atlantic Ocean. Boston accumulated great wealth from the Triangle Trade.
In modern times, Boston became nationally known as Bean Town as a result of a publicity stunt. A large event took place on July 28-August 3, 1907 that was called Old Home Week. About one million stickers (a new invention at the time), with an image of two hands clasped above a bean pot, were distributed to promote the event. An article in the April 25, 1907 Boston Globe describes the sticker:
"The sticker is in the form of an irregular seal about 1-3/4 inches in diameter, the lettering and design being in embossed white and the background a brilliant red.
In the center of the seal appears a typical Boston bean pot surrounded by two clasped hands, the two signifying the fact that Boston will not only be ready to extend the 'glad hand' to the homecomers during the reunion week, but that there will be something more substantial in the way of entertainment than a mere greeting."
Historic societies were actually very upset that a bean pot was used as a symbol for Boston instead of local patriotic symbols, as bean pots were essentially just a stove implement or tool used by common folks. Beans were inexpensive, and a means of sustenance for the many poor immigrants in Boston.
Postcards provide more supporting evidence about the stickers being the main source of the Bean Town nickname. That summer, many postcards were published with slogans such as You don’t know beans until you come to Boston; Bigger, Better, Busier, Boston [with an image of a bean sprout]; and Souvenir of Boston and Vicinity, Won’t You Have Some? [with an image of a bean pot]. And, importantly, some Boston postcards were originally printed with a typical tourist sight, and then later put back through the press with the Old Home Week logo printed on them in blazing red.
Seventeen years earlier on August 11-16, 1890, the Twenty-Fourth National Encampment of the Grand Army of the Republic, a Civil War veteran’s reunion, took place at Boston. The Beverly Pottery Company of Beverly, Massachusetts supplied thousands of small ornamental bean pots as souvenirs for the troops, and this helped to make the bean pot a symbol for the City of Boston. In about 1896, a bean pot was placed atop a clock in the gallery in the old Common Council Chamber in Old City Hall, validating that Beverly bean pots had some impact in cementing the symbol for the city of Boston. Beverly itself was nicknamed Bean Town at one time, and legend has it that a schooner full of beans landed there in the early 1700s, and supplied the whole town with them. This supposed event also gave its inhabitants the nickname, Beverly Beaners.
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脹氣

焗豆以食後脹氣聞名。這是由於腸道菌群作用,多糖(特別是寡糖)在體內發酵。低聚糖在穿過小腸時基本保持不變,但當他們到達大腸後,這裡的大量細菌與寡糖作用,生產大量的屁 . Source: Wikipedia:baked beans

Flatulence

Baked beans are known on occasion to cause a considerable increase in flatulence following consumption. Source: Wikipedia: baked beans

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Why is cooking considered an art, but baking a science? Source: https://www.quora.com/Why-is-cooking-considered-an-art-but-baking-a-science

There is science to both cooking and baking. If you are a food technologist, you will understand there are many chemical reactions happening in both areas. What is more challenging is, of course, baking. Unlike cooking, if you forgot to add the salt or vinegar for taste, you can always add that in later. With baking, the process is irreversible, and therefore, accidents are more pronounced. Traditional baked goods are usually 50% flour. How this flour reacts in the batter/dough determines the characteristics of the product. That is why there is a whole encyclopedia dedicated towards baking science, and there is an entire baccalaureate 本科program , the only one in the world, dedicated to baking sciences in the Department of Grain Science and Industry at Kansas Sate University.  Author: Lin Carson, PhD. in Grain Science, Bread geek and Founder of BAKERpedia.


Cooking is more in the art side because it tolerates imprecision, in general, which allows more room for variation and improvisation 
即興 . Baking is just like following an experiment protocol: step by step with precise amount of ingredients, time and temperature. Author: Hiep Khong, Grad student in biomed

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騰訊控股(00700)主席馬化騰出席內地論壇時表示,中興通訊(00763)事件算是將大家打醒,顯示出中國在基礎科學方面非常薄弱,而所謂中國的「新四大發明」,即高鐵、移動支付、網購和共享單車,只是表面輝煌,彷彿在海灘上建樓,一推就倒。Source: http://hk.on.cc/hk/bkn/cnt/finance/20180526/bkn-20180526225259873-0526_00842_001.html

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波士頓食龍蝦的歷史很短:

In North America, the American lobster did not achieve popularity until the mid-19th century, when New Yorkers and Bostonians developed a taste for it, and commercial lobster fisheries only flourished after the development of the lobster smack, a custom-made boat with open holding wells on the deck to keep the lobsters alive during transport. Prior to this time, lobster was considered a mark of poverty or as a food for indentured servants or lower members of society in Maine, Massachusetts, and the Canadian Maritimes. It has been suggested servants specified in employment agreements that they would not eat lobster more than twice per week, however there is no evidence for this. Lobster was also commonly served in prisons, much to the displeasure of inmates. American lobster was initially deemed worthy only of being used as fertilizer or fish bait, and until well into the 20th century, it was not viewed as more than a low-priced canned staple food. As a crustacean, lobster remains a taboo food in the dietary laws of Judaism and certain streams of Islam, see also kashrut, halal, and list of halal and kosher fish. Source: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lobster#History

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張鐵林1987年赴英國留學,四年半後他留校任教並加入了英國國籍。在英國留學期間,張鐵林每天都能吃到新鮮的豬頭肉。原來,在英國,人們在吃肉類時,是不吃動物頭的,魚頭,雞頭,豬頭等等,統統切下扔掉。張鐵林得知這種情況後,每天早上趕早來到菜場裏,到賣豬肉的的攤主那裏要下了他們準備扔掉的豬頭。晚上回到家裏,就能好好吃一頓自己親手燉煮的香噴噴的豬頭肉了。原文https://read01.com/DzMge4.html


张铁林:哎呦,我留學那会想吃肉,想吃中国饭怎么办呢。我进菜市场,我看见人把那个猪头啊,卖猪肉的,那猪头,就掉那大筐里头。鱼呀,鱼头,那个鱼尾巴还有这么大一块肉。一大鱼头,轰轰轰就都全都弄筐子里面。什么猪肝,猪尾巴,猪蹄什么都扔筐就放一边。我就问人家,我说那个可能便宜吧,那个要不要?你要这个吗,你要这个,拿拿拿走,把这儿全拿走。我发现这东西不要钱,我就拿,我就说我来一猪头。我弄一猪头我拿好多报纸把那猪头包好了,提拉那猪耳朵,提拉回去。到唐人街买一大铁锅,生铁锅,我弄点酱油乱七八糟,葱、姜、蒜什么就是中国那套,炖猪头。把整个一猪头弄成块,请我的英国同学来吃。我还没桌子,铺着报纸在地毯上。哎呦,这好吃啊,不知道吃什么,不能跟人说是什么。拿那筷子,哄一扎,说这是什么肉啊,这还有个“眼”。那猪鼻子,就是那一块没切开,就落了,那一块是猪鼻子,喀,那筷子就。这,这什么肉啊,这,这,这个。好吃,吃那猪头肉不要钱,但是很快那个东西就要钱了。后来在唐人街那个橱窗里头你可以看见什么酱猪尾巴呀,猪蹄什么就开始慢慢有了。那时候我八十年代初,去英国的时候还没这玩意。Source: http://phtv.ifeng.com/program/lyyy/detail_2014_05/29/36570999_1.shtml

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英國人(共6千6百萬)每天吃掉九千萬塊餅乾(消化餅, 不是丹麥牛油曲奇), 為歐洲之冠. 最大的工廠為McVitie's (1830), 每天烘焙出84萬塊消化餅和其他種類. 580 名工人每星期生產出2,500公噸餅乾, 占全英國食用量1/4.

英國兒童多食用容易消化之炸鰵魚(冰島)手指(cod fish finger).  中世紀近岸漁業鯡魚作魚手指的. 遠洋漁業則以鰵魚為主.  英國兒童每年吃上十億條(cod fish finger & herring savouries), 每星期吃掉600公噸.

所有鰵魚好吃的部份:
          魚頭和魚骨: 冷風燥後用作打湯;
          魚皮: 作料;
          肥美腩(帶骨):冰島食用不外銷

上述符合工業生產fish finger規格之部份不作外銷, 留冰島食用魚尾無骨部份急凍集裝箱載往英國林肯郡200人工厰用人工切片, 再由機器加工成魚手指, 魚餅.  一間工廠一天可做八萬條魚手指, 一星期共出產165公噸魚手指和魚餅.


【張鐵林留學撿豬頭肉吃】張鐵林1987年赴英國留學,四年半後他留校任教並加入了英國國籍。在英國留學期間,張鐵林每天都能吃到新鮮的豬頭肉。原來,在英國,人們在吃肉類時,是不吃動物頭的,魚頭,雞頭,豬頭等等,統統切下扔掉。張鐵林得知這種情況後,每天早上趕早來到菜場裏,到賣豬肉的的攤主那裏要下了他們準備扔掉的豬頭。晚上回到家裏,就能好好吃一頓自己親手燉煮的香噴噴的豬頭肉了。

原文網址:https://read01.com/DzMge4.html

土耳其跟火雞 為什麼都是Turkey?

土耳其跟火雞 為什麼都是Turkey?


火雞是北美洲的原生物種,所以火雞跟歐洲國家土耳其英文拼法一樣是個詞源學上的謎題。事實上,用turkey來指這種家禽,似乎是因為歐洲探險家把火雞跟另一種鳥「珠雞」(guinea fowl)搞混了。
土耳其跟火雞 為什麼都是Turkey?

圖片來源:shutterstock


火雞



珠雞

珠雞與火雞、一般的雞都屬於雞形目,但珠雞是漠南非洲的原生物種。史丹佛大學語言學家朱拉夫斯基(Dan Jurafsky)解釋,珠雞於15世紀時被再次介紹到歐洲,「蒐集異國動物是文藝復興時期王公貴族和有錢人的嗜好,珠雞會出現在宮庭花園和私人動物園裡。」
當時控制埃及、現在以色列和黎巴嫩的馬穆魯克王朝,是珠雞的主要供應者。馬穆魯克王朝在種族上算是土耳其人(多數來自高加索地區),所以珠雞的渾名就是「土耳其雞」(Turkish chickens、galinias turcicas)。
有些珠雞從靠近現代衣索比亞的地方輸入,也有人說牠們是「印度雞」,當時歐洲人常把那塊地區跟印度搞混。接著,16世紀時跨大西洋交易逐漸發展起來,北美火雞也常被和珠雞搞混。
朱拉夫斯基說,接下來的幾百年,英文的「土耳其雞」(turkey cock)、「印度雞」(cocks of Inde)和法文的「印度雞」(poules d'Inde),有時被用來指火雞,有時被用來指珠雞。
例如,莎士比亞《亨利四世》裡有個角色曾提到「turkey」,但從歷史上來看這個字絕對是指珠雞,因為亨利四世時代的英格蘭人還不知道火雞這種北美鳥類。但隨著時間過去,以訛傳訛,「turkey」逐漸變成專指美洲火雞。
不過哥倫比亞大學語言學教授Mario Pei的說法與朱拉夫斯基有出入。Mario Pei告訴NPR,火雞與土耳其的語源關係,來自透過君士坦丁堡交易過去的珠雞,完全沒提到馬穆魯克王朝,另一位專家麥庫洛區(Gretchen McCulloch)也持相似看法。但君士坦丁堡直到15世紀中以後才受到土耳其人控制,因此馬穆魯克版本的說法較為可信。
不過兩種版本一致的說法是:土耳其販子把珠雞賣到歐洲,然後歐洲人搞混兩種雞,也把北美火雞稱做turkey。
(土耳其人自己並不使用turkey這個詞彙稱呼火雞,而是叫它們 hindi。土耳其語 turkiye 指人類的土地)