奇洛埃島不願和智利一體化
露西•多爾特羅夫 奇洛埃島 https://www.bbc.com/zhongwen/trad/fooc/2015/01/150130_fooc_islands 2015年 1月 30日
「世界盡頭」的奇洛埃島,不僅風景優美,而且有著悠久的歷史、獨特的文化。智利政府計劃下個月動工,修建一條南美最長的跨海大橋,把奇洛埃和大陸連在一起,造福島民。不過,島上許多人根本不領情。
奇洛埃島。那天,細雨濛濛。不過,雨一停、霧一散,當地人所稱的「高蹺上的彩屋」漸漸映入眼簾。一對黑頸天鵝從船邊優雅地遊過,對彩屋根本不屑一顧。
導遊本傑明說,「我們不在乎下雨,該怎麼過怎麼過,穿上應季的、合適的衣服,好好享受身邊的環境。」
本傑明說的當然很有道理。就連達爾文在他的《小獵犬號航海記》中,都提到了奇洛埃島的壞天氣。智利海岸線漫長、粗獷,奇洛埃群島位於下半部三分之二左右。
儘管天氣不怎麼樣,島上獨特的野生動物、當地人的善良好客還是給達爾文留下了深刻印象。正是在奇洛埃島探索期間,達爾文有機會親眼看到一起罕見的火山噴發。這加深了他對地質學的理解,幫助他以後完成了有關火山環礁、珊瑚礁形成的重要研究項目。
現在,30個小島構成一個有著鮮明個性、執意保持「獨立」的社區。老一輩人仍然相信那些代代相傳的傳說、神話。比如,有一艘叫做Caleuche的幽靈船,在海上搜集死難者的靈魂;還有,醜陋的小矮子Trauco,目光如刀、可致人於死地,不過,對年輕的處女,卻有不可抗拒的誘惑。
17世紀時,耶穌會首先將天主教帶到島上。現在島上的許多教堂也都是傳教士留下的見證。從前,當地人的建築技巧主要發揮在造船方面,所以,主要散落在海岸邊的160座教堂都是用底朝天的船體作為架構。
其中16座教堂已經被收錄進入聯合國教科文組織的世界遺產名錄。
後來,島上的人用當地出產的木材蓋起房子,圖案非常獨特,和智利其他地區殖民風範的建築風格截然不同。
奇洛埃的首府卡斯特羅(Castro)始建於1576年,1960年,卡斯特羅遭遇一場地震,港口被夷為平地,城區部分受損。不過現在,卡斯特羅仍然是一個充滿個性的地方。
在繁忙、喧鬧的雲布爾(Yumble)市場上,西班牙語比較流利的人立刻就應該能辨認出獨特的奇洛埃口音。
和南美其它地方不一樣的是,這裏,商品交易是秩序井然、很有控制地展開的。
攤檔上擺買了各色亮晶晶的貝類。捕魚,仍然是島民的主要職業之一。
奇洛埃島上的教堂被教科文組織列為世界遺產
附近的果蔬攤上,有巨大的大蒜頭 (簡介 http://eatingchile.blogspot.com/2009/11/chiloes-giant-garlicajo-chilote_29.html ),最多的還是土豆。島上總計種植200多種土豆,顏色從紫紅到淺黃。土豆仍然按「阿姆德」出售—五公斤一包。這個古老的計量單位是西班牙入侵者遺留下來的,南美大陸其他地方已經不再使用。
Source: https://www.flickr.com/photos/giahs/7724287120
不過現在,變化即將來臨。但是,並非所有的人都相信,這會是件好事。智利政府決定修建一座把島嶼和大陸連接成一體的跨海大橋,建成後,這將是南美最大的橋樑。
不過現在,變化即將來臨。但是,並非所有的人都相信,這會是件好事。智利政府決定修建一座把島嶼和大陸連接成一體的跨海大橋,建成後,這將是南美最大的橋樑。
兩年前,智利國家航空公司推出每周四次、飛往卡斯特羅附近微型機場的航班服務,但是,現在想要去智利大陸,依然要用浪漫的老方法,30分鐘的渡船,從不遠處蒙特港東南邊兒的帕爾瓜(Pargua)出發。 大橋修好之後,這段旅程將縮短為三分鐘的車程。短是真短了,但恐怕也更加乏味。
建築師、一座新飯店的總經理安德雷斯•布拉瓦裏解釋說,「現在島上的人分歧很大。原來我們被告知,大橋能讓我們使用大陸上更好的醫療設施。這我們確實需要,但是,應該可以把修橋的一小部分預算投在島上建一所更現代的醫院吧。真相是,沒有人徵求過我們的意見。」
去年發生的一件事確實凸顯了島上的人面臨的醫療風險。米麗婭姆•馬塞拉•桑塔納當時35歲,懷孕25周,腦溢血。島上的小醫院沒有條件妥善救治,醫生決定送她去大陸。但是,距離大陸醫院行程三個小時,太長了,米麗婭姆沒有活下來。
1960年5月,奇洛埃遭遇20世紀最嚴重的地震
除了醫療方面的好處,支持修建大橋的人還希望能夠借此推動奇洛埃島開發旅遊業、吸引投資、創造更多商業機會。不過反對者擔心,島上的生態環境會受影響,土壤、海水會被污染,獨特個性恐怕也難以維持。
卡斯特羅歷史悠久的城中心新建了一座購物中心,也不大受歡迎。法律糾紛不斷,迄今購物中心還沒開門。
修建跨海大橋也有可能遭遇障礙。特別是,如果悲觀派預言成真、島上的生態環境真會受到衝擊的話。
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Chilean bridge project to Chiloe Island delayed
轉載自: http://www.worldhighways.com/sections/events/news/chilean-bridge-project-to-chiloe-island-delayed
First publishedon www.WorldHighways.com
Delays to the project to
construct Chile’s Chacao Bridge mean that an additional two years may be
required for the work. The work is now being carried out solely by a consortium,
Consorcio Puente Chacao, headed by the South Korean contractor Hyundai.
The consortium asked for an extra US$200 million to carry out the project, in
addition to extending the work by two years. The bridge was originally planned
to be complete by 2020 but the various delays so far mean that it will not now
be ready for traffic until 2023. The extra costs mean that the final bill for
the project could be $900 million.
A suspension bridge design was selected for the link as it was thought to be best able to cope with the extremes of weather, as well as the massive earthquakes that can occur in the area. At 2.75km long, this will be South America’s longest suspension bridge once complete, with main spans of 1,055 and 1,155m. According to Hyundai, progress is being achieved on the project and the design for the south pillar is now complete.
Once the bridge is complete it will help to redevelop the economy of Chiloe Island. At present the inhabitants rely on a ferry service however the new bridge will speed transport and reduce journey times, boosting the economy and also helping to develop tourism.
The bridge has been discussed for some years. An earlier plan for the project was cancelled over concerns about its costs. However the current project was commissioned as the suspension bridge configuration offered considerable cost benefits over the previous design, while delivering the expected connectivity to the island.
A suspension bridge design was selected for the link as it was thought to be best able to cope with the extremes of weather, as well as the massive earthquakes that can occur in the area. At 2.75km long, this will be South America’s longest suspension bridge once complete, with main spans of 1,055 and 1,155m. According to Hyundai, progress is being achieved on the project and the design for the south pillar is now complete.
Once the bridge is complete it will help to redevelop the economy of Chiloe Island. At present the inhabitants rely on a ferry service however the new bridge will speed transport and reduce journey times, boosting the economy and also helping to develop tourism.
The bridge has been discussed for some years. An earlier plan for the project was cancelled over concerns about its costs. However the current project was commissioned as the suspension bridge configuration offered considerable cost benefits over the previous design, while delivering the expected connectivity to the island.