2016年4月29日 星期五

梁文道"舌頭:味覺現象學" 發現英國 ISBN978-988-16472-0-7 (2015-10-19 13:45:12)

梁文道<<舌頭:味覺現象學II>> 發現英國 ISBN978-988-16472-0-7 (2015-10-19 13:45:12)

中世紀英國是受阿拉伯餐飲影響其後直接由西班牙(包含西西里同屬穆斯林國度)僱入阿拉伯大廚
摘自 wikipedia: Regional cuisines of medieval Europe: Britian
Relatively little is known about the eating habits of the Anglo-Saxons of the Early and High Middle Ages before the Norman conquest in 1066Ale was the drink of choice of both commoners and nobles, and the known dishes included various stews, simple broths, and soups. The level of refinement was low, and international influence fairly insignificant. This all changed in the 11th century after the Norman invasion. With the invaders came a new and less provincial gentry, and new eating habits, especially for the nobility. While traditional British cooking today is not regarded with high esteem internationally, the Medieval Anglo-Norman cooks were considerably more refined and more cosmopolitan. It has previously been believed that the Anglo-Norman cuisine was mostly similar to that of France, but recent study has shown that many recipes had unique English traits. This was based partly on the different available foodstuffs on the British Isles, but more due to influence from Arab cuisine through the Norman conquest of Sicily. The Arab invaders in the 9th century had cultivated their lifestyle culturally and economically to such a degree that the Norman invaders inherited and adapted many of their habits, including cooking styles. Norman participation in the crusades also brought them into contact with Middle Eastern and Byzantine cooking.
The subtlety (or entremet), the fanciful and highly decorative surprise dish used to separate one course from another, was brought to new levels of complexity and refinement by the English chefs. Among the specialties were pommes dorées ("gilded apples"), meatballs of mutton or chicken colored with saffron or a glaze of egg yolk. The Anglo-Norman variant, pommes d'orange, were flavored and coloured with the juice of bitter oranges.[7]
摘自https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Regional_cuisines_of_medieval_Europe
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在中世紀,埃及烹飪獲得了最高聲譽 220頁 烹飪,菜餚與階級(Cooking, cuisine and class : a study in comparative sociology / 傑克.古迪(Jack Goody, died on 16 July 2015, aged 95)著 ; 王榮欣, 沈南山譯. 2012 廣場出版 

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Jean-Louis Flandrin (1931 - 2001) 認為中世紀英國的烹飪受

到阿拉伯菜的影響比法國菜更深 149頁,飲食與愛情 : 東方與西方的文化史 = Food and love : a cultural history of East and West / 傑克.顧迪(Jack Goody)著 ; 楊惠君譯. 台北 聯經, 2004
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布羅代爾提出一個更廣泛的主張,即在十五世纪以前,歐洲沒有複雜的烹飪法.確實,他把精緻的烹飪法局限在五世紀的中國人以及十一,十二世紀的回教徒,在西方只局限於義大利人的成就,十六世紀以降,法國延續了此傳统(230頁), 而法國菜餚是建立在牢固的義大利基礎上 (284頁,烹飪,菜餚與階級(Cooking, cuisine and class : a study in comparative sociology / 傑克.古迪(Jack Goody)著; 王榮欣, 沈南山譯. 2012 廣場出版)


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