Tim EcottTorshavn 27 April 2017 https://www.bbc.com/news/magazine-39703486
There's a shortage of women in the
Faroe Islands. So local men are increasingly seeking wives from further
afield - Thailand and the Philippines in particular. But what's it like
for the brides who swap the tropics for this windswept archipelago?
When
Athaya Slaetalid first moved from Thailand to the Faroe Islands, where
winter lasts six months, she would sit next to the heater all day: "People told me to go outside because the sun was shining but I just said: 'No! Leave me alone, I'm very cold.'" Moving
here six years ago was tough for Athaya at first, she admits. She'd met
her husband Jan when he was working with a Faroese friend who had
started a business in Thailand. Jan knew in advance that bringing his wife to this very different culture, weather and landscape would be challenging.
"I had my concerns, because everything she was leaving and everything
she was coming to were opposites," he admits. "But knowing Athaya, I
knew she would cope." There are now more than 300 women from
Thailand and Philippines living in the Faroes. It doesn't sound like a
lot, but in a population of just 50,000 people they now make up the
largest ethnic minority in these 18 islands, located between Norway and
Iceland. In recent years the Faroes have experienced population
decline, with young people leaving, often in search of education, and
not returning. Women have proved more likely to settle abroad. As a
result, according to Prime Minister Axel Johannesen, the Faroes have a
"gender deficit" with approximately 2,000 fewer women than men. This,
in turn, has lead Faroese men to look beyond the islands for romance.
Many, though not all, of the Asian women met their husbands online, some
through commercial dating websites. Others have made connections
through social media networks or existing Asian-Faroese couples. For the new arrivals, the culture shock can be dramatic. Officially
part of the Kingdom of Denmark, the Faroes have their own language
(derived from Old Norse) and a very distinctive culture - especially
when it comes to food. Fermented mutton, dried cod and occasional whale
meat and blubber 鲸脂, 赘肉 are typical of the strong flavours here, with none of
the traditional herbs and spices of Asian cooking.
And, although it never gets as cold as neighbouring Iceland, the wet,
cool climate is a challenge for many people. A good summer's day would
see the temperature reach 16°C. Athaya is a confident woman with a
ready smile who now works in the restaurant business in Torshavn, the
Faroese capital. She and Jan share a cosy 舒适 cottage on the banks of a
fjord 峡湾 surrounded by dramatic mountains. But she's honest about how
difficult swapping 交換 countries was at first. "When our son Jacob was a baby, I was at home all day with no-one to talk to," she says.
"The other villagers are older people and mostly don't speak English.
People our age were out at work and there were no children for Jacob to
play with. I was really alone. When you stay at home here, you really
stay at home. I can say I was depressed. But I knew it would be like
that for two or three years." Then, when Jacob started kindergarten, she began working in catering and met other Thai women. "That was important because it gave me a network. And it gave me a taste of home again." Krongrak
Jokladal felt isolated at first, too, when she arrived from Thailand.
Her husband Trondur is a sailor and works away from home for several
months at a time.
She started her own Thai massage salon in the centre of Torshavn.
"You can't work regular hours with a baby, and although my
parents-in-law help out with childcare, running the business myself
means I can choose my hours," she says. It's a far cry from Krongrak's previous job as head of an accountancy division in Thai local government. But
she is unusual in that she runs her own business. Even for many highly
educated Asian women in the Faroes, the language barrier means they have
to take lower-level work. Axel Johannesen, the prime minister, says helping the newcomers overcome this is something the government takes seriously. "The
Asian women who have come in are very active in the labour market,
which is good," he says. "One of our priorities is to help them learn
Faroese, and there are government programmes offering free language
classes."
Kristjan Arnason recalls the effort his Thai wife Bunlom, who arrived in the Faroes in 2002, put into learning the language. "After a long day at work she would sit reading the English-Faeroese dictionary," he says. "She was extraordinarily dedicated." "I
was lucky," Bunlom adds. "I told Kristjan that if I was moving here he
had to find me a job. And he did, and I was working with Faeroese people
in a hotel so I had to learn how to talk to them." In an age
when immigration has become such a sensitive topic in many parts of
Europe, Faeroes society seems remarkably accepting of foreign incomers."I think it helps that the immigrants we have seen so far are mostly
women," says local politician Magni Arge, who also sits in the Danish
parliament, "They come and they work and they don't cause any social
problems. "But we've seen problems when you have people coming
from other cultures into places like the UK, in Sweden and in other
parts of Europe - even Denmark. That's why we need to work hard at
government level to make sure we don't isolate people and have some kind
of sub-culture developing." But Antonette Egholm, originally from
the Philippines, hasn't encountered any anti-immigrant sentiment. I met
her and her husband as they moved into a new flat in Torshavn. "People
here are friendly, she explains, "and I've never experienced any
negative reactions to my being a foreigner. I lived in metro Manila and
there we worried about traffic and pollution and crime. Here we don't
need to worry about locking the house, and things like healthcare and
education are free. At home we have to pay. And here you can just call
spontaneously at someone's house, it's not formal. For me, it feels like
the Philippines in that way." Likewise, her husband Regin believes increasing diversity is something that should be welcomed not feared. "We
actually need fresh blood here," he adds, "I like seeing so many
children now who have mixed parentage. Our gene pool is very restricted,
and it's got to be a good thing that we welcome outsiders who can have
families." He acknowledges that he's had occasional ribbing 取笑 from
some male friends who jokingly ask if he pressed "enter" on his computer
to order a wife. But he denies he and Antonette have encountered any
serious prejudice as a result of their relationship. Athaya
Slaetalid tells me that some of her Thai friends have asked why she
doesn't leave her small hamlet 小村莊, and move to the capital, where almost
40% of Faroe Islanders now live. They say Jacob would have more friends
there. "No, I don't need to do that," she says. "I'm happy here now, not just surviving but making a life for our family. "Look,"
she says, as we step into the garden overlooking the fjord. "Jacob
plays next to the beach. He is surrounded by hills covered in sheep and
exposed to nature. And his grandparents live just up the road. There is
no pollution and no crime. Not many kids have that these days. This
could be the last paradise on earth." Tim Ecott is the author
of Stealing Water, Neutral Buoyancy: Adventures in a Liquid World and
Vanilla: Travels in Search of the Luscious Substance.
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