臺北早安財經文化有限公司 2013 一書更建議在西班牙改吃異國料理換換口味, 不必再吃一輪過鹹的西班牙小菜, 生火腿切片和 bacalao (鹹鱈魚乾), 因為西班牙有很多南美洲和拉丁美洲的移民和餐廳, 在那裡吃得比美國同樣餐廳好, 價格也很便宜 272頁

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In Cod We Trust

By MOLLY O'NEILLJAN. 28, 1996

轉載自: http://www.nytimes.com/1996/01/28/magazine/food-in-cod-we-trust.html

中文請參考: http://www.guokr.com/article/154574/
https://zh.wikipedia.org/wiki/鱈屬

Years ago, when the cold weather put a crimp(使起皺) in the family larder (a room or place where food is kept, lard 是豬油, larder 是存放猪油的櫃), the Portuguese people of New England would rely on cod, the fish they called fiel amigo, or faithful friend 忠實的朋友. Indeed, while other more delicate species headed south for the winter, cod stuck around, eating to its heart's content at the bottom of the North Atlantic.

Source: Google map

Once, the waters from Newfoundland to Cape Cod (地圖上紅點) teemed (湧現) with cod. The explorer Giovanni Caboto（John Cabot）（1450年–约1499年)，是意大利的航海家、他于1497年受英格兰国王亨利七世的委托出海，发现了北美洲) regaled (款待) his British patrons with tales of an ocean so rich that cod could be caught by simply lowering a weighted basket into the water(497 年後的 1994 鱈魚已經是捕撈殆盡了, 加拿大在大西洋的漁場全部關閉 224頁). Cod was Massachusetts's first industry and the source of its early wealth. Serious fortunes were made from the export of salt cod and the manufacture of cod liver oil.

馬薩諸塞州最早的致富途徑是捕鱈製魚肝油和鹽醃鱈乾賣往歐洲和西印度群島

So indebted were the people of Massachusetts to the "beef of the Atlantic" (revenues from cod paid for the sea war against England) that a carving of the fish hangs in the Massachusetts House of Representatives
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sacred_Cod . 現今議會裡還懸掛着那條神聖木雕大鱈魚 1784.

Source: https://www.flickr.com/photos/denniswright/3009242289/sizes/l/

"Good old Boston," goes the ditty (a short, simple song), is "The home of the bean (著名食品為 Boston Style Baked Beans with molasses 糖蜜, Boston Beaneaters (1893 - 1906, baseball 球隊)) and the cod/Where the Lowells talk to the Cabots/And the Cabots talk only to God."

一般人感恩節沒有大火雞, 烹一條大鱈魚全家吃一頓

重要而平凡的鱈魚是上帝?

In cod we trust = in God we trust?

Cod and God were often equated in Europe, where dried salt cod became a staple (主食) of Lent (40天大齋戒) and other fast days, with the French eating morue, the Spanish bacalao and the Scandinavians lutefisk. Here, however, cod descended to a secular low. Those who couldn't afford a big bird on Thanksgiving had Cape Cod Turkey: boiled whole cod, boiled potatoes and trimmings (修剪下來的蔬菜).

Today, when people eat a dish like this, they do it as much for memory as for nourishment. Face it, cod's very sturdiness (雄壯) and abundance, what it was once revered (崇敬,敬畏) for, resulted in its social decline.

歐洲和波士頓靠吃鱈渡過困難的日子, 一旦富足了便貪新忘舊

The Cabots may have made their money from cod, but once they ascended the upper reaches of Boston society, cod was too common a fish for the likes of them. Until recently, it was the rare fine restaurant that celebrated its lean firm flesh and forgiving flake (薄片).

Atlantic cod is a member of a long extended family, but is often confused with nonrelatives. A. J. McClane's Encyclopedia of Fish Cookery describes the Atlantic cod (which can grow up to 211 pounds but is generally harvested at a fraction of that size) as the standard-bearer. Often, any pint-size white fish is passed off as scrod (鳕鱼的幼鱼), which is technically a small Atlantic cod. Black cod, an unrelated sablefish, and blue cod, a cabezon, add to the general confusion.

Haddock (黑線鱈), hake (狗鱈，無鬚鱈) and pollock (阿拉斯加鳕鱼和明太鱼) are members of the clan, but because they taste different than the standard-bearer, they cook differently as well. Which is not to prevent you from exchanging one family member for another in the recipes below -- affability (和藹可親) is a cod family trait. Almost any member of the clan will be flattered by butter and cream, by olive oil, herbs, lemon or tomato. It is a family that takes its comfort however it is offered; I've never met a cod hurt by boiling, broiling, deep-frying, sauteeing, baking, stewing or steaming.

冬季是鱈魚當造, 便宜而豐腴(音如)的滋味暖萬家

But let's be truthful here: the Atlantic cod outshines the rest of the brood (一窩孵出的雛雞) in taste and texture no matter what the season. Winter, however, is its shining moment. More abundant than its relatives, cod will be caught closer to home, and that means a fresher taste of the sea.

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鳕(鰵)魚家庭食譜

Cod With Mustard-Cracker Crust

4 4-ounce cod fillets 1 teaspoon salt Freshly ground pepper to taste 8 teaspoons Dijon mustard 2 teaspoons ground cumin 1 cup cracker crumbs.

1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Sprinkle the cod fillets on both sides with salt and pepper. Stir together the mustard and cumin and rub the mixture all over the cod. Coat the fillets in the cracker crumbs and place on a baking sheet. Bake until the fish is cooked through, about 15 minutes.

2. Preheat the broiler. Place the fish under the broiler just until browned, about 45 seconds. Divide the fillets among 4 plates and serve immediately.

Yield: Four servings.

Cod Smothered With Wild Mushrooms

1 teaspoon olive oil 2 1/2 cups cubed wild mushrooms 1 clove garlic, peeled and minced 2 teaspoons salt Freshly ground pepper to taste 3 tablespoons chopped Italian parsley 1 cup mushroom broth 3 teaspoons fresh lemon juice 4 4-ounce cod fillets.

1. Heat the olive oil in a large, nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add the mushrooms and cook, stirring occasionally, for 2 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for 30 seconds longer. Stir in 1 teaspoon of salt, pepper, 2 tablespoons of parsley and mushroom broth. Simmer for 10 minutes. Stir in 2 teaspoons of lemon juice.

2. Season the cod with 1 teaspoon of salt and pepper. Drizzle with 1 teaspoon of lemon juice. Place the fillets in the skillet, spooning the mushroom liquid over the top. Reduce the heat to medium-low and braise until the fish is cooked through, about 6 minutes. Place 1 cod fillet on each of 4 plates and spoon the mushroom sauce over the top. Sprinkle with the remaining parsley and serve immediately.

Yield: Four servings.

Cod in Red Wine Sauce

2 teaspoons unsalted butter, cold 1 teaspoon olive oil 4 4-ounce cod fillets 4 shallots, peeled and minced 2 cups red wine 4 tablespoons balsamic vinegar 2 tablespoons port 1 teaspoon salt Freshly ground pepper to taste 2 teaspoons chopped Italian parsley.

1. Heat 1 teaspoon of the butter and the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the cod and saute just until cooked through, about 2 minutes per side, turning the cod carefully with a wide spatula. Remove the cod to a plate and keep warm.

2. Place the shallots in the skillet and saute until softened, about 1 minute. Add the wine and cook, stirring and scraping the bottom of the skillet with a wooden spoon, until reduced by half, about 5 minutes. Stir in the vinegar and port. Cook for 1 minute longer. Cut the remaining teaspoon of butter into small pieces and whisk it into the sauce. Season with the salt and pepper. Strain.

3. Spoon the sauce into the center of 4 plates. Top with a cod fillet and sprinkle with parsley. Serve immediately.

Yield: Four servings.

Cod With Sweet-and-Sour Tomato Sauce

1 teaspoon olive oil 2 small onions, halved and thinly sliced 2 1-pound cans plum tomatoes, drained (liquid reserved) and finely chopped 1/2 teaspoon grated orange zest 3 tablespoons fresh orange juice 2 tablespoons Madeira 1/4 cup raisins 2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar 1 tablespoon honey 1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon 2 teaspoons salt Freshly ground pepper to taste 2 tablespoons toasted slivered almonds 4 4-ounce cod fillets 2 tablespoons minced scallions.

1. Heat the olive oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add the onions and turn the heat to medium-low. Cook until completely wilted and browned, about 10 minutes. Add the tomatoes, 1/2 cup of the reserved liquid, orange zest and juice, Madeira, raisins, vinegar, honey, cinnamon, salt and pepper. Simmer for 25 minutes.

2. Stir in the almonds. Place the cod in the skillet and cover with the sauce. Simmer until just cooked through, about 10 minutes. Carefully transfer the fillets to plates using a wide spatula. Spoon some of the sauce over the fish, sprinkle with the scallions and serve immediately.

Yield: Four servings.

Cod Stew With Tomatoes, Kale And Chorizo

6 ounces chorizo, thinly sliced 3 cloves garlic, peeled and minced 1 small onion, peeled and chopped 8 cups stemmed and torn kale 5 large red potatoes, cut into 1/2-inch chunks 1 28-ounce can plum tomatoes, drained and coarsely chopped 2 cups water 1 1/2 teaspoons salt Freshly ground pepper to taste 4 4-ounce cod fillets.

1. Heat a large pot over medium heat. Add the chorizo and cook until browned, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and onion and cook until soft, about 5 minutes. Stir in the kale, potatoes, tomatoes and water and bring to a boil. Reduce heat, cover and simmer for 20 minutes, stirring twice. Uncover, raise the heat slightly and cook for 20 minutes longer. Stir in the salt and pepper.

2. Place the cod over the liquid, cover and simmer until just cooked through, about 5 minutes. Using a wide spatula, carefully transfer the fillets to shallow soup bowls. Spoon the stew over the cod and serve immediately.

Yield: Four servings.

Cod and Potato Stew With Oven-Dried Tomatoes

The tomatoes:

2 teaspoons rosemary oil 1/2 teaspoon orange oil 14 medium-size plum tomatoes, core end cut off, halved lengthwise 1/2 teaspoon salt Freshly ground pepper to taste The stew:

2 teaspoons olive oil 1 medium onion, thinly sliced 2 large cloves garlic, peeled and thinly sliced 2 medium carrots, peeled and finely chopped 1 large rib celery, finely chopped 1 1/2 cups white wine 3 cups water 1 bay leaf 2 sprigs fresh rosemary 2 medium baking potatoes, peeled and thinly sliced 1/2 jalapeno, seeded and minced 1 pound cod fillets, cut into 1 1/2-inch chunks 2 teaspoons salt Freshly ground pepper to taste.

1. To make the tomatoes, preheat oven to 200 degrees. Combine rosemary and orange oils in a small bowl. Using a pastry brush, coat both sides of the tomato halves lightly with oil mixture. Place skin-side down on a large baking sheet. Sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste.

2. Bake the tomatoes until they shrink to about 1/4 of their original size, about 4 to 6 hours; they should remain soft and juicy. Let tomatoes cool on the baking sheet. Cut them in half crosswise and set aside.

3. To make the stew, heat the oil in a large pot over medium heat. Add the onion, garlic, carrots and celery. Reduce the heat to medium-low and cook, stirring often, for 10 minutes. Stir in the wine, water, bay leaf and rosemary. Add the potato slices. Bring to a boil, reduce heat, cover and simmer for 25 minutes. Stir in the tomatoes and jalapeno and simmer, uncovered, for 5 minutes. Add the cod and simmer just until cooked through, about 3 minutes. Divide among 4 bowls and serve.

Yield: Four servings.

博主補充: 吃鱈鱼為主和崇尚宗教有無直接聯系? 1983 研究報告指出英國漁民的死亡率是一般製造業從業人員的ニ十倍以上 150頁 (Mark Kurlansky <<鱈魚之旅 Cod: a biography of the fish that changed the world>>臺北, 新雨 1999 ). 無論怎樣現代化捕魚, 打魚撈蟹在今天的歐美仍然是最高死亡率的一種生計.

歷史上(十七世紀至1930 年代前)捕捉歐洲近岸鱈魚是危險而辛苦的, 只需用二人划小艇, 趁二月至四月冷暖海流交匯, 海面濃霧瀰漫時出海, 在大浪與嚴寒中用生命轄出去把魚捕回來的 146頁. 二十世紀之前, 漁人捕魚是一場性命攸關的賭博, 輸光了便用上足夠的宗教活動去紀念和崇拜.

香港王建中kcwongjinan@gmail.com

2017年5月4日星期四

鳕(鰵)魚對歐洲的貢獻 In Cod We Trust

In Cod We Trust

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2017年5月4日 星期四

鳕(鰵)魚對歐洲的貢獻 In Cod We Trust

In Cod We Trust

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張貼留言

2017年5月4日星期四