以下轉載自:
葡萄牙香腸「不但好吃還能救命」
西奧多拉·薩克利夫（Theodora
Sutcliffe）
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2017年 10月 17日
Image
copyrightGETTY IMAGES
Image copyrightGETTY IMAGESImage caption摩爾人統治時期，葡萄牙猶太人迎來了他們的黃金時代（圖片來源: Andrea Pucci/Getty Images）
Image
copyrightGETTY IMAGESImage caption如果家中沒有懸掛香腸，那很可能住著躲避西班牙宗教裁判所的猶太人（圖片來源:
Peter Ptschelinzew/Getty Images）
Image copyrightGETTY IMAGESImage caption米蘭德拉蒜腸經常被用在猶太安息日的燉豆湯（cholent）中（圖片來源: The Washington Post/Getty Images）
Image copyrightGETTY IMAGESImage
caption香腸是葡萄牙菜單中必不可少的美食（圖片來源:
Maremagnum/Getty Images）
Image copyrightGETTY IMAGESImage caption葡萄牙貝爾蒙特地區猶太人秘密禮拜延續了400多年（圖片來源: Paulo Amorim/Getty Images）
Manteigaria
Silva是里斯本歷史最悠久的熟食店之一，1928年以來，這家店幾乎沒有太大變化。天花板上懸吊著熏火腿，貨架上擁擠地擺放著波特酒和馬德拉白葡萄酒，一塊塊金黃的奶酪塊靜靜等待著客人的關顧。而在風乾豬肉（lombo）和辣味香腸（chouriço）的旁邊，擺著一種葡式風味濃郁的香腸，這就是在2011年被票選為葡萄牙七大美食之一的蒜腸（Alheira，不用豬肉，而用其他肉類製成的香腸）。
就算是在香腸受歡迎的國家，人們也會覺得大部分填料不那麼健康。而在葡萄牙，人們對混合著麵包屑的蒜腸則喜愛有加。它不僅僅是一款爽心美食。在Manteigaria
Silva鋪面幾米開外的羅西奧廣場（Rossio Square），當年大批猶太人在此遭受迫害，蒜腸可能在當時挽救了數百甚至數千人的生命。
只要有人願意聽，每道菜都可以有講不完的故事。而與世間大多數美食相比，葡式料理更具備厚重的敘事性，它就像是一張由入侵歷史和殖民故事交織而成的細密又繁複的掛毯，在不同大陸和宗教之間輾轉飄零。
Image copyrightGETTY IMAGESImage caption摩爾人統治時期，葡萄牙猶太人迎來了他們的黃金時代（圖片來源: Andrea Pucci/Getty Images）
"像葡萄牙的眾多菜餚一樣，最受歡迎和最古老的葡式美食誕生在多個世紀前的摩爾人統治時期——這一時期也被稱為西歐猶太人的黃金時代，"專攻里斯本猶太史的專家保羅·謝費爾（Paolo
Scheffer）解釋道。
公元八世紀起，由北非侵入的穆斯林統治了伊比利亞半島大部分地區，包括丘陵城市阿爾烏斯布納（Al-Ushbuna），他們帶來了紛繁複雜的穆斯林文化，外族人稱他們為摩爾人。此後，這裏建立起了一個長期繁榮的猶太社會，猶太人和穆斯林彼此和睦相處。
從杏仁餅、玫瑰酥點，到湯餚、燉菜和香腸，兩大宗教的人民都為今天的里斯本留下了美食的印記。"我們有摩爾香腸和摩爾魚，甚至還有摩爾燉湯，這是現在是一種名為cataplana的海鮮菜式，"謝費爾觀察到，"但這些菜餚都遵守猶太教和伊斯蘭教的飲食規定，沒有添加如今流行的烹飪食材，比如貝類、豬肉和兔肉。"
十二世紀，基督教十字軍第一次橫掃里斯本。他們洗劫和謀殺穆斯林、猶太人，甚至一些同為基督徒的人也受到迫害。這時的城市已經有了自己的烹飪文化：以豬肉和貝類為代表的基督教特色食材開始和與原有的當地烹飪風味相融合。後來，隨著葡萄牙遠征的足跡遍布全球，番茄、辣椒和黑胡椒等食材和佐料開始在葡式料理中留下印記。謝費爾指出，現在的葡萄牙基督教飲食與阿拉伯和猶太人的傳統菜式非常相似。
被基督教征服後，中世紀的葡萄牙仍然延續著摩爾帝國的傳統，成為了一片寬容並蓄的土地。然而，到了1492年，阿拉貢的費迪納德二世（Ferdinand）和他的戰爭女皇伊麗莎白·德卡斯提爾（Isabella
of Castile）擊潰了最後一個摩爾酋長國格拉納達（Grannada），並佔領了阿罕布拉宮（Alhambra Palace）。
費迪納德和伊麗莎白是狂熱的天主教徒，他們認為虔誠的猶太教徒可能會鼓勵那些已經皈依基督教的人重拾自己過去的宗教信仰。他們指派審訊人員迫害國內的猶太教徒，這種恐怖統治手段就是歷史上稱為西班牙宗教裁判所（Spanish
Inquisition）的時期。
Image copyrightGETTY
IMAGESImage caption羅西奧廣場曾經是西班牙宗教裁判所的刑場（圖片來源:
Jose Elias/Lusoimages/Getty Images）
因此，曾經在摩爾統治時期安居樂業在安達盧斯（Al-Andalus）的萬千猶太人被驅逐出西班牙。他們逃到葡萄牙，主要集中在里斯本，但這座城市也沒有提供太長時間的庇護。爆炸式的人口增加導致瘟疫爆發，基督徒公民強令所有猶太人必須住在城池之外。
到1496年，在葡萄牙居住的猶太人也被迫改信基督教，不願意改變信仰的人只能離開。十年後，一場大屠殺爆發，憤怒的公民和水手在全市範圍內屠殺了數以千計改變了宗教信仰的猶太人。1536年，宗教裁判所進入葡萄牙活動，不久之後，不論是虔誠的猶太教徒還是已經轉變為基督教徒的猶太人，幾乎都在羅西奧廣場經受了遊街懺悔、火刑焚燒等殘酷迫害。
葡萄牙的秘密猶太教徒將自己偽裝成基督徒，竭力掩飾自己的宗教信仰：他們在天主教祈禱書中藏著希伯來語的禱告詞，將猶太教的內容與天主教儀式相結合以掩人耳目。貝爾蒙特地區（Belmonte）甚至有一個社區將這一傳統秘密傳承了四百多年。而深藏在葡萄牙北部德拉什烏什蒙特什地區（Trás-os-Montes）崎嶇山脈中藏身的猶太人，創造了葡萄牙最知名的蒜腸：米蘭德拉蒜腸（Alheira
de Mirandela）。
Image copyrightGETTY IMAGESImage caption米蘭德拉蒜腸經常被用在猶太安息日的燉豆湯（cholent）中（圖片來源: The Washington Post/Getty Images）
在德拉什烏什蒙特什地區，每個家庭都會醃製豬肉香腸以備過冬，並把它們掛起來。不吃豬肉的猶太人會因為不掛香腸而顯得十分顯眼。
謝費爾解釋說："當地的告密者和宗教狂熱分子會向宗教裁判所舉報誰不吃豬肉。為了躲避宗教裁判的迫害，於是米蘭德拉鎮發明了一種麵包（和豬肉以外的其他肉類製成的）香腸，可以愚弄這些舉報者。"
謝費爾發現，對於德系猶太人（Ashkenazi
Jews）來說，米蘭德拉蒜腸似乎與猶太腸（kishke）非常相似，後者是一種塞滿了肥肉、穀粉和調料的猶太香腸，經常在猶太安息日的燉豆湯（cholent）中出現。傳統上，德拉什烏什蒙特什地區的猶太人會用麵包和雞肉進行烹飪，但現在的米蘭德拉蒜腸不再嚴格遵循猶太教規，可以填充豬肉，野味，甚至蔬菜等任何食材。
今天，米蘭德拉蒜腸早已翻越層層山脈而廣為人知，它與英式香腸類似，是一種家常美食。你不會在高檔的菜單上看到它，但它在超級市場隨處可見，也會和牛排雞蛋一起出現在路邊早餐店或鄰家小館中。
Zé dos Cornos餐廳位於里斯本聖喬治城堡（Castelo de São
Jorge）腳下，是一幢白色小屋，菜餚盛放在巨大的矩形餐盤上，我目睹了當地人在此大快朵頤。烤成馬蹄形的米蘭德拉蒜腸看起來光澤誘人，搭配有煎蛋、炸薯條和白米飯。在煙熏的蒜味香腸裏填滿了多汁的肉塊和濕潤的酸味麵包屑。
儘管摩爾人擁有北非血統，但絶大多數人除了安達盧斯以外仍然難以追溯他們具體的故鄉，只知道他們在里斯本停留了很長時間。直到今天，他們所聚集的山坡地區仍被稱為Mouraria，意為"摩爾人鄉鎮"。但直至19世紀初，猶太人方才開始回歸，不過即使希特勒上台，在里斯本的猶太人也不超過一千。
Image copyrightGETTY IMAGESImage caption葡萄牙貝爾蒙特地區猶太人秘密禮拜延續了400多年（圖片來源: Paulo Amorim/Getty Images）
然而，在第二次世界大戰初期，中立城市里斯本又成為歐洲各地猶太人的避難所。葡萄牙外交官阿里斯蒂德斯·德蘇薩門德斯（Aristides
de Sousa
Mendes）抵住來自獨裁者薩拉查（Salazar）的壓力，向數千名猶太人發放了旅行證件：超過一萬名猶太人從里斯本起航穿越大西洋尋求棲身之地。
如今，葡萄牙各地都開始重新挖掘猶太歷史，但與其說米蘭德拉蒜腸是當年偽裝下的猶太人的象徵，不如說它是葡萄牙主流美食的一部分。就像葡萄牙語裏的"星期六（Sábado）"來自猶太安息日（Jewish
Sabbath）一詞、里斯本的大街小道鋪滿了深受阿拉伯風格影響的瓷磚一樣，香腸是過去的標誌，見證了一段不同文化共融的紛繁歷史。
- By Theodora Sutcliffe
In
Alheira likely saved hundreds, maybe thousands, of souls
In
countries that eat sausages, a high proportion of filler is not generally
considered a positive. But in Portugal, alheira, a garlicky affair stodgy with
breadcrumbs, is highly prized. And it’s much more than just comfort food. In a
time when Jews were being persecuted
Every
dish can tell a million stories, if only there’s someone to hear them. Yet
Portugal’s cuisine is more narrative-heavy than most, a complex tapestry of
invasions and colonisations that slips and slides between continents and
religions.
“Like
many dishes in Portugal, the most popular and time-honoured ones have stayed
with us over many centuries from the period of Moorish rule – also known as a
golden era for Jews in Western Europe,” Paolo Scheffer, an expert on Lisbon’s
Jewish history, explained.
From
the 8th Century, the sophisticated Muslim culture from North Africa that
outsiders called the Moors ruled much of Iberia, including the hilly city known
as Al-Ushbuna. A Jewish community had long lived and flourished here, and Jews
and Muslims lived in harmony.
Jews and Muslims both left their gastronomic mark on modern-day Lisbon
From
marzipan and rosewater pastries to soups, stews and sausages, citizens of both
religions left their gastronomic mark on what is today the city of Lisbon. “We
have Moorish sausage, Moorish fish dishes and even Moorish broth, which is now a
seafood dish calledcataplana,” Scheffer observed. “But those dishes
would have adhered to Judaic and Islamic dietary laws without the popular
ingredients added today like shellfish, pork and rabbit.”
By
the 12th Century, when Christian crusaders first roared through Lisbon, raping
and murdering Muslims, Jews and fellow Christians alike, the city already had
its own culinary culture: Christian elements, such as pork and shellfish, merged
with this established set of flavours. Later, as Portuguese navigators spread
across the globe, ingredients like tomato, chilli and black pepper would leave
their mark in turn. At times, Scheffer said, it’s hard to separate what’s now
identified as Christian Portuguese food from the established Arab and Jewish
cuisines.
Following
the tradition set by the Moors, medieval Portugal, even after the Christian
conquest, was a generally tolerant place. However, in 1492, Ferdinand of Aragon
and his warrior queen Isabella of Castile defeated the last Moorish emirate –
Granada – and took the Alhambra Palace as their own.
Avid
Catholics, Ferdinand and Isabella believed that practising Jews might encourage
those who had converted to Christianity to go back to their old religion. They
appointed interrogators to persecute the Jews in their kingdom: their rule of
terror would be known as the Spanish Inquisition.
As
a result, tens of thousands of Jews who had flourished in Moorish Al-Andalus
were thrown out of Spain. They fled to Portugal, particularly Lisbon, but the
city did not stay safe for long. After overcrowding caused a plague outbreak,
Christian citizens forced all Jews to live outside the city walls.
By
1496, Portugal’s Jews were also forced to convert to Christianity, or leave. Ten
years later, rampaging citizens and sailors killed thousands of converted Jews
in a citywide pogrom. In 1536, the Inquisition formally arrived in Portugal, and
soon both practising Jews and Jews who had converted to Christianity were among
the unfortunates parading in penance or burnt at the pyre in Rossio Square.
Jews went to huge lengths to conceal their faith
Disguising
themselves as Christian converts, Portugal’s secret Jews went to huge lengths to
conceal their religion – from writing Hebrew prayers in Catholic prayer books to
combining Jewish words with Catholic rituals. (One community in Belmonte kept
its faith alive in secret for more than 400 years.) In the rugged mountains of
northern Portugal’s Trás-os-Montes, one of these hidden communities created
Portugal’s best-known alheira sausage: Alheira de Mirandela.
In
Trás-os-Montes every home preserved pork sausages to see the family through the
winter, hanging them from the rafters in meaty coils. Jews – who did not eat
pork – were conspicuous for their missing sausages.
“They
were seeking refuge from the Inquisition,” Scheffer explained. “So the town of
Mirandela developed a bread sausage that could fool informers and local zealots
who denounced them to the Inquisition for not eating pork.”
To
Ashkenazi Jews, Scheffer observed, the Alheira de Mirandela seems very
like
Today,
the alheira has travelled far beyond the mountains. Rather like the British
banger, it’s a comfort-food staple. You won’t find it in fine dining joints, but
it’s ubiquitous in supermarkets, and appears alongside steak and eggs in
workers’ cafes or neighbourhood diners.
At
The
Moors, most of whom, despite their North African ancestry, had known no home but
Al-Andalus, stayed in Lisbon for a long time. Even today, the hillside district
where they lived is known as Mouraria (Moorsville). But it was not until the
early 19th Century that Jews began to return and, even as Hitler rose to power,
there were no more than 1,000 Jews in Lisbon.
Yet,
during the early days of World War II, the neutral city again became a refuge
for Europe’s Jews. Defying the dictator Salazar, Portuguese diplomat Aristides
de Sousa Mendes issued travel documents to thousands of Jews: more than 10,000
Jews would set sail from Lisbon to safety across the Atlantic.
Today,
although towns and cities across Portugal are beginning to rediscover their
Jewish history, the alheira is more a part of mainstream Portuguese cooking than
a symbol of the people who created it. Like the Portuguese word for ‘Saturday’ –
'Sábado', for the Jewish Sabbath – and the brilliant Arab-influenced tiles that
illuminate Lisbon's teetering streets, the sausage is an indicator of a past as
cosmopolitan as it is complex.
